Amazing how impressive the ubiquitous L-series looks when shoehorned in a 1200!

Quote:

Well, I did mean B310, but a 120Y would work just as good.

We've used coil-sprung rear diffs in a few 1200s here. We just cut off the stock mounts and weld on mounts for the leaf springs.

Quote:

So given if i use another type of reverse light i still have to make a custom gearbox member ?

It may be easier to get a auto then ?
marginally. if you already have a manual body, I'd use that. auto tunnel would make life a bit easier, but certainly is not a necessity. you could cut and weld an auto tunnel in. It would make a gearbox change easier later on - my engine almost has to come out to get the box out.

So you could not fit the reverse light switch in there because off the mounts ?
that's right.

Is there a way you could have another type or reverse light switch ?
yes. initially, when I got the car engineered and registered, I still had both the mounting brackets still in the tunnel. The reverse light switch mounted on a simple bracket under the console activated by the shifter itself.

Quote:

It may be easier to get a auto then ?

I already have a 4sp a series box and clutch i could put in before i do the swap.

So you could not fit the reverse light switch in there because off the mounts ?

Is there a way you could have another type or reverse light switch ?

So far things sound tempting ;)

Off topic, Datsun Stanza's how much they weigh ?

Remove engine mounts from L Series X Members and weld into 1200 member to fit the engine low and far back as possible ?
I used the saddles from the Stanza x-member because it was just the easiest way to get suitable brackets in there for the L series mounts. To get the engine as low and rearward as possile requires mods to the mounting brackets on the engine and careful positioning of the saddles on the x-member.

Secondaly... can the same be done for the gearbox member ? or will i need to fabricate one myself ?
I have removed the gearbox mounting bracket on the drivers side of the tunnel for clearance, and so I could fit the reverse light switch. I have a manual tunnel which is smaller than the auto tunnel. You have to fabricate a gearbox x-member with different body attachment points if you have a manual tunnel. You may be able to use the factory mounts on the body if you have an auto tunnel.

Which gearbox would go in the easist ? no point doing things the hard way :)
Any of the Short boxes. Stanza 5spd or Stumpy Skyline boxes are definitely an easier fit than the long boxes, but the long boxes can be used as well.

How do the inlet manifold clear the strut towers ? close fit ?
http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=1143

Custom tailshaft that mates up from the gb to diff ?
yes? You'll be using a larger splined L series gearbox output shaft, which is also further back in the body, and will have to mate to whatever diff you use that will also have a longer head than the standard one. You'll either have to modify some factoy tailshaft at both ends and have it rebalanced, so you may as well just have a new one made.

And do you have a picture of this Drag Link ?
http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=1152
drag link is the steering link that connects both side of the car, running behind the x-member on 1200s. As you turn the wheel, this bar rises due to the geomtry of the pitman and idler arms. Mine clears the sump by only a few mm at full lock

Ok ive sorta got this all worked out in my head now :)

Remove engine mounts from L Series X Members and weld into 1200 member to fit the engine low and far back as possible ?

Secondaly... can the same be done for the gearbox member ? or will i need to fabricate one myself ?

Which gearbox would go in the easist ? no point doing things the hard way :)

How do the inlet manifold clear the strut towers ? close fit ?

Custom tailshaft that mates up from the gb to diff ?

And do you have a picture of this Drag Link ?

So far this is starting to excit me :D

maybe I should take the time to sit down and write something up properly, cause this comes up pretty regularly.

Stanza x-member doesn't bolt-in. I didn't use the Stanza x-member, just picked the saddles off it and welded them on the 1200 x-member.

I had a custom tailshaft made with strong, cheap, and readily available Ford unis.

I used a 120Y borg warner diff initially. They are easily strong enough for the job. I now use the same series BW diff, but the wider housing and lower ratio available in 70's vintage Corollas, using the 120Y yoke/flange.

Hydraulic clutch conversion is fairly straightforward. Just remember to brace the firewall with a stell plate as well where the master cylinder mounts.

I'll answer any other specific questions you've got, but here's some other threads with L series info from as recently as last week to get you started:
I might be picking up an engineless 1200
200B parts into a 1200 coupe

DVLDAT, I know there are some old threads discussing the 120Y L series swap. I can't find them, but there's a couple of pics from when I did the swap here

Het Mat - it's never too late...

The Stanza x-member (HL510 A10 chassis in U.S.?) and sump is a front hang, but the rest of the install is a bit unclear (aside from hacking the radiator support). I guess the L20B deck height won't cause a problem?

Daganabit!

I could have done an L18 conversion and been happy with it as opposed to this slowpoke A14 I've got now.

Check out this guy who claims to have run a 12.96 with a normally aspirated L18 (stroked, but no nitrous).

website