I'm not sure what the combination switch is. My B210 book (1977) lists a combination meter, which just means the gauges.

About the fuse box, don't trust that they look good, or that your changed them. Actually measure the voltages, because that's what powers the lights.

Hy Dgonzal,I noticed that in the book, the dimmer switch is the high/low switch working alongside the signal light switch, same lever,what I call the dimmer switch is as you said the illumination control switch.
But still confused with the light switch and the combination switch, which one is what.Are those two names refering to the headlamp switch? The confusion comes in when checking the wire diagram, there is a light switch, and also a separate drawing within that same diagram named the combination switch.
About the fuse thing, you said to make sure both ends of a single fuse read 12V, I am lost, are you sugesting that I may have a 6 volt fuse in there?.Will double check.
Nissan wants 76US$ for that switch,too much for a switch.I will check the junk yard.First I will check for continuity at the switch.Autozone has one, special order, 3 days time, for 29US$. I will try the yard, the switch is probably similar to other Datsuns of the time, might be able to find a Datsun, if not the one I want, something contemporary to mine.
Later.____________________
About the gauges ilumination, I know what you mean by too much expectations for the lights at the gauges, but, still, mine are faint.Perhaps some are burnt, will check, perhaps , like somebody said, the bulbs are dirty(that happened in another car of mine).

Be careful about terminology. The Nissan factory manual calls the low-beam/hi-beam switch the "Dimmer Switch".

The one that brightens/darkens the dash lights is the "Illumination Control Switch".Quote:More likely either some of the many dash lights are burned out, or your expectations are too high. B110 and B210 dashes had poor illumination even when new (compared to today's cars).

Quote:That's right. If the fusible link was bad, nothing would work ...

For the headlight, get out a voltmeter and check the voltages at the fusebox. Do both side of the headlight fuse read 12V? If not, don't bother removing the switch.

Hy B210sleepr, good to know there is no relay, so it is safe to assume the problem is the light switch, I will try another switch, that should(I hope it) do it.
Will bring in my results.
Jaime.__________________________

Cable tie: In the US, the light switch is on the left side(I know down under you guys drive on the other side)...of the steering wheel, but the dimmer(gauge) function is not within the light switch, but there is a separate knob, one that just rotates, located inside of the light switch, towards the steering wheel. When I rotate it, the gauges light turns off(counter) or goes full ilumination the other way, but what is supposed to be full ilumination is weak light. I know this is an older car, but it is way too faint.Probably that switch is bad.
The light switch in my 120 has also 2 positions, first one turns on tail lights, front markers(in grille round orange lights) and side markers(front and rear in US).
Second position turns on the low beam headlamps. The high beam is activated with the signal lever, moving it backwards(towards driver).
In my case, both low/high beam do not work, which makes me think it is nothing involving the high beam lever, but the actual switch(light), the fusible link(that wire coming out of the positive post of the battery which has a "fusible link, fuse like cable designed to blow out as a fuse)...or a headlamp relay, if there is any, which my book either does not mention or perhaps my car does not have it.
Any insights , comments, please write them down. Knowing myself, I will end up installing a new switch, headlamps, f link, only to find out it was the relay(or any combination posible, tendency to end up learning the hard way).
Later.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++

210's have no headlight relays. all the power goes through the switch in the steering column. I had problems with my headlight switch, it's fairly easy to fix, I got a spare combo switch from the junk yard and swapped pieces between em till i got the switch working. you don't need to take the steering wheel off to do it. Having a complete spare switch helps a lot.

as far as the instrument lights being dim, maybe the contacts are dirty...

In oz the dimmer was by turning the light switch one way, the other takes the knob off!. It is also 2 stage switch. Pull it out 1 click, hit high beam and it will turn your headlights off. 2nd click to use high beam.

I can't see the merit in this.

Question. My headlamps(120Y) stopped working, low/high beam alltogether. The rest works(markers, signals brake, dash, etc.)
I suspect it is the switch, the fuses are fine, I even replaced all off them (fuse box). Before I get into the job I want some light into the issue. The electric diagram shows the fuse link, could it be the faulty part?(if the fuse link was bad, would it not prevent the rest of the electrical system from working normally? I have the rest of the lights working.).
The book talks about a combination swich, and the diagram shows the light switch and another thing, the combination switch, are these two different switches? .The book talks about the light switch, but other than showing the comb switch at the diagram, there is no mention of where this comb switch is located. I am planning to take the light switch out and test it for continuity, but before I do it( tendency to dissasemble the whole world only to find out later the culprit was not where I was looking into%$#*&^#@!!!!)
Before taking the switch out, is there a headlamp relay anywhere? (my manual has nothing about a headlamp relay)
BTW, I just want to add, the dash/gauge lights have been very dim, always, before this headlamp episode, I guess a new dimmer switch(gauges, next to light switch) should cure the problem am I right?, because the battery, and all lights(even headlamps before going off) are bright.
later.
Jaime.++++++++++++++++++++