No Bathurst for me this year. I'm doing the last rally of the year up here in 3 weeks time instead (that's only a week before Bathurst). A bit of a shame, I really would have liked to see all those 1200 racecars together at Bathurst - is everyone else still going?

Just picked up the rallycar again today and will begin the prep work tomorrow... I can't wait!

I don't see the point in having 2 racecars - one for circuit and one for dirt. I can barely afford my racing addiction with one of the bloody things. Besides, I can't see myself going back to sprints.

Well Harry words I didnt think Id hear, are you going to do Bathurst?

If you are selling what do you think you might ask for it? and why could you keep it and have a Stanza as well?

Rallying and Circuit racing are completely different disciplines and its a decision I made years ago to stick with circuit after doing some rallying in a PRC class MR2 Mk1 I used to own.
I love the door handle rubbing and the drag down the straight to see who was going to drop out of the corner first!! I love the aero and grip of an open wheeler as well. I also love the sand traps instead of trees and the feeling of getting the corner just right and the slingshot it gives you when you put the power down at the right time. Circuit racing I believe has more finesse where it comes down to 1000's of a second a lap difference. Just awsome. for example Bathurst is a track you can probably drive all your life with a career in motorsport and only get 10laps out of 1000 that you would say that you got right!!
Anyway Harry I hope it goes well and I really didlook forward to competing against/with you at Bathurst

Why not just have both the race car and the rally car??

thanks pro-240c, but I've been running a L18 crank and pistons in a L16 Stanza block for a few years now, except I use the long L16 rods...

Stanza is my personal preference for a rally car - the L20B is homologated for that car and with Z20 rods, you get a pretty good combination, and the live rear axle is a bit simpler and robust IMHO.

L18 is homologated for 1600 and 180B.

Internal dimensions (capacity) within the homologated block is free (ie unrestricted).

The L14 homologation in the B110 is unfortunately a bit of a longshot after some further investigation this afternoon. If it refers to the LZ twin cam engine, which I believe it does (cost about $200 to get the papers - CAMS doesn't have a set in the country and they would have to be sourced from the FIA in France), that's a deal breaker because heads aren't 'free' components like I thought they were - the number of valves and camshafts must be preserved So its back to plan A for me...

here's the link

L series strokers

Quote:

LOL always happens huh?

the first time you drive, you get scared sh!tless. then you're hooked and start thinking about how you could have done it better...!

i would go with a 180B or a stanza personally, parts are easier to come by body wise.

you could overbore the L16 in the stanza by 2.0mm and fit L18 rods, pistons and crank or overbore the L18 and use L18 rods with custom KA24DE pistons and a Z series crank to make yourself a nice 2.05L stroker

if only it was that easy. you NewZealanders have got it good with your rally rules, but here we have to use the original or homologated engine block for the model, so the L18 is a no-no.

We're also not allowed to run flares, so there would be substantial rework to the rear gaurds to revert back to standard looking bodywork.

The car would also need bigger brakes to cope with 20-odd km stages. That's no big deal though.

Then there's just the other things you've covered above.

L14 is a possibility, but I would have to get some homologation papers and find an L14 block. I believe the L14 block is the same as an L16 block in terms of deck height and bore, just with shorter stroke and longer rods. If that's the case, I could run my current crank, ords, and pistons in an L14 block which would be very nice

Maybe I should buy those homologation papers and go from there...

Harry, I can't believe what I am reading here!
Assuming that the coupe is still road legal I would have thought that you would be better off changing that around to suit gravel?
At the end of the day you've got a good, proven package, excellent rollcage, the cars clearly making good horsepower and putting it on the ground. So what are you going to need ?;
Sumpguard
Better strut inserts/ rear shocks ( turreted )
Raise the car up for more travel ( new set of springs front and rear )
Spare seat and belts
Halda
Mudflaps
Take the rear bar off it on gravel and away you go!
I would'nt have thought that this shopping list justified a whole new shell/ car unless you can't bring yourself to put the coupe on gravel and see it potentially get bashed about a bit.
Cheers
Dave

OK, I've officially got the "bug" for rallying... I realised this when I started considering selling the coupe in the last couple of days to make way for a rallycar something I never thought I would do!

the local supersprints and hillclimbs don't really have the same appeal anymore. I guess I've done them all for a number of years now anyway, and this rallying thing is a whole new challenge, and way more fun!

Converting my 1200 to be suitable and legal for rallying would really be as big a job as building a new car from scratch, so the options I'm considering are buying a pre-loved 1600, 180B, or Stanza rally car (I have lots of goodies for L series engines...) or building one myself if I can't find anything decent.

Stay tuned, the 1200 may be for sale shortly, and I'll advertise it here first. I'm just waiting for the next rally on the 27th to make sure I don't have any second thoughts...

What are you using for suspension???