A couple of pics of fitting....this is to my Sunny though.

Test install with Girling MC. Crossbar from rollcage was in the way, so we went for short AP MC's in the end. ($$$$$)




Bolted in place with AP MC's



Before Fitting

Forget the brake bias valve craig, you wont need it and it is just extra plumbing to worry about.

The balance bar is the best option - stick with that. It's just as simple and easy to adjust as the bias valve too - just go with one.

Mark.

converted.............

theres talk here about mechanical bias AND hydraulic bias.

the bar does the mechanical bias, the brake bias valve adjusts the balance hydraulically..

both do what Converted mentioned.

from memory the hydraulic method is sh ite. it introduces something called hysteresis into the braking system. I'm not fully oiled on this...it has something to do with a hydraulic delay occuring when the brake pedal is released?????????????(or it takes a split second longer for the brakes to activate)

Why do you need both???????? I'm sure the store preson wants you to buy both, but since they both do the same thing, and one has a huge disadvantage...you may be better of with only the bar.

the bias between front and rear is for differing weather conditions.You want to have more bias on the front in the dry and there is more braking force on the front due to extra grip and the car therefore pitches more,unloading the rear more. You need to take braking power off the rear in those conditions cause its alot easier to nip the rear wheels the more thay are unloaded. So in the wet you want to drive the bias towards the rearas grip is less available on the front therefore less dive and the rear is better grounded.

Nice bit of kit Craig- go for it. I'd love one too. I run a home made adjustable pedal box with two 5/8" cylinders. Was good but with the commodore calipers has ended up with a longer pedal than I was used to. Got used to it though.
What's the advantage of running the bias valve as well?

Thanks for your advice Sterlo, that was my big question as to what master cylinders to use with it. I want to use a balance bar and in car adjuster as well as a brake bias valve next to the drivers seat.
I would love some shots of the plate you made up for mounting purposes, especially as to how you cut out the the steering support bracket and adjustability of it.

I run a Willwood set up in my car. It is the earlier style pedals with cast grips rather than the later black and sandpaper jobbies. The instructions with them are really good with all the dimensions shown clearly. All I did was cut the lower section of the original pedal box and welded a plate 3mm thick to the remaining two legs. I had drilled multiple mounting holes in the plate prior to welding to give me some adjustment. I can get a shot of the mounting plate but not with the pedal box since I have'nt replaced it after it being stolen out of the car last year..I also ran two rose jointed support rods from the rollcage cross tube that runs behind the dash to avoid any flexing. They are bloody good units and also offer a great tech support to help with master cylinder sizing and caliper compatiability. I run 2 7/8" m/c and have two set of Superlite calipers with different size pistons for differing set ups but I have stuck with the 1 3/8" pistons so far. The pedal travel is short but really good to drive with. I have copied the Willwood pedal boxes several times when building them for other people.

Harry I can see youre online Im expecting some words of wisdome here.....

yeah reomte reservoir is the good choice...however space is my biggest problem

Some classes have some wonderful restrictions.

I would also look at a remote reservoir version if it is available.