it's cost accounting. if a $2000 set of brake disks last 3x as long $300 is a good price.

if a $40 set of brake disks last 3x as long you haven't even recovered the $300.

It sounds to good to be true. aspecially for the price.

The article I read showed a chainsaw chain which had been split up. all the teeth on one side only had been crygenicly anealed. Then the saw was used to cut manuka (Hard wood) for four hours. The pic of the chain showed zero wear on the treated half, compared with the untraeted half. The chain had been brand new prior to the experiment.

it seems to work, but it's probably not worth doing with $40 brake disks.

ok i was in the artical i read it was stating that any metal can be done ferous or non ferous it all just sounds to good to be true to me

Quote:

The process itself isn't expensive, it's just that you have to have the right material to start with...... That's where the $$$ is.

Now i'm wishing i'd got my 280zx disks treated and slotted.

There's an industry in turning brake disks even when they don't need it just so they can sell you new disks. Now the part i don't understand is many places here in the states have weird lifetime replacement warrantees on brake pads and disks.

So apparently it's getting paid for the labor?

i dont think it is that expensive from between $5 and$10 a kilo but i supose if it was that good every one would be doing it

It's called precipitation hardening.....

It's a bit like sugar in a hot cup of tea.
When it's hot the molecules are spaced further apart & allow more sugar to be dispersed.
When you cool the tea down, it "sweats" or precipitates the sugar out.

The problem with this process is that you need material with the correct mix of elements to start with..... This is usually Duplex stainless steel, which is nearly the most expensive steel you can buy.

Basically to high of a spec. for automotive..... Unless you have way too much cash.

Not quite as good but heaps cheaper to go for more traditional hardening techniques like Nitriding & shot peening.

There was an article about cryogenic anealing in NZ hot rod magazine a few years back.
The process does what you explained in the first post. The difference between cryogenic anealing, and old fashioned anealing by heat treatmants is, that the cryo method doesn't make the metal brittle.
I belive it works, but it's heller expensive. So as much as I like the idea, I'll have to live with out it.