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boondy
Re: Drag Link
#16
Just can't stay away
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2005/8/5 2:10
From Perth
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I bought one of these with 4 new tie rod ends and the idler arm ass.this year and im sure(ill find the reciept and check) the whole lot didnt go over $300 the part number is tr412 power max brand it was either super cheap or veale where i got it from.

Posted on: 2006/4/26 13:15
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PIGDOG
Re: Drag Link
#15
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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2004/10/28 11:35
From Geelong, Vic
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i was only going to charge $80 max and mine is like new

dont forget about me

Posted on: 2006/4/26 9:24
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B210sleeper
Re: Drag Link
#14
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2003/12/3 0:49
From Burbank, CA
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When i got a new one i just got it to replace everything with new parts. Do they wear out?

Posted on: 2006/4/26 2:50
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|||\ 81 KPB310 /|||
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Topgear
Re: Drag Link
#13
Home away from home
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I know what your saying, but it did only cost me $90 including freight across town...

If it last 2 years, then you can get at least 10 years worth done for less than a new one..

Remember most people here play with these cars because they cant afford $20-30k GTR's....??

Posted on: 2006/4/26 2:02
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phunkdoktaspok
Re: Drag Link
#12
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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I would really think long and hard about actually buying the new one if its avaliable.
It might seem expensive, but is it really that expensive.
Think about the ball joints in the draglink. They are worn. That means actual metal has worn down over 30 years. Metal worn on metal. How smooth can it be.
Getting them filled will make them feel like new ( I cant see how the can be better)
But what I think about is - if its metal worn on metal, how good is it going to be with this worn down metal rubbing on the urethane ( or whatever it is used to fill them)
Will they need refilling in 1 years time? How expensive will the quick fix get if you plan to keep the car for a while?

Posted on: 2006/4/25 14:27
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DatmoNQ
Re: Drag Link
#11
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2005/4/10 1:37
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Well i'm sold!! Looks like that is what i'll have done then, save myself shyteloads over a newbie.

Posted on: 2006/4/25 14:06
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Topgear
Re: Drag Link
#10
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I have had my drag link for my 1000 plastic injection moulded... It seems to be working good, they told me that t is better than std...???

So far so good...

Posted on: 2006/4/25 7:02
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DatmoNQ
Re: Drag Link
#9
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Yeah the shop told me about that injecting method, Any body had that done? what did you think of it safety wise?

Posted on: 2006/4/25 3:26
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B210sleeper
Re: Drag Link
#8
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2003/12/3 0:49
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I got a new one for a 310 (rwd) a couple years ago, somewhat expensive, maybe $150 USD.

Seems like an easy part to restore if they are hard to find.

Posted on: 2006/4/25 2:24
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ddgonzal
Re: Drag Link
#7
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2001/5/3 7:04
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The drag link (Cross Rod) used to be less than $200 from Nissan.

Open in new window

Steering Linkage, B110

Quote:
You can have the joints "Plasti-surged" I had it done to my drag link, Good as new! Was only about $90 to do both ends!!!
ball joints wanted

How to check for play (wear) in the linkage: Steering gearbox adjustment. If the drag link is off:
- both ends should move freely in all directions (except up and down)
- the joints should have some friction, they should not 'flop around' which indicates wear

Quote:
I have managed to get hold of an aftermarket [drag link]. The part number is STR412 ... made by 555.

My one (A '85 Datsun Ute) has a straight drag link with the necessary eyes on either side to mount the tierods and idler/pitman arm etc.
This new part I have has a slight bend at either end. It is the same length but a different shape. (Sway bar type shape)
That is apparently the difference: B210 drag links have a slight u-shape, but otherwise fit a B110. Reportedly ...

Posted on: 2006/4/25 2:00
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