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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
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Thanks DD. Ill have a look at it.

Posted on: 2008/1/17 5:34
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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
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More likely the exhaust manifold is cracked. Look it over very carefully (remove the heat shield). It will sound like a bad lifter.

Posted on: 2008/1/17 4:28
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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
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Hi Guys, almost got it right.
I notice a tapping sound coming from the engine, like a badly set tappet, but sounds like its for one cylinder only. I notice a difference in the exhaust note that follows the tapping sound. Also when I drive the car, as I step on the accelerator, such that the engine load increases, theres a metallic sound coming from the cylinder. Again it sounds like tis from 1 cylinder. It does not sound like piston slapping. The sound is very consistant and happens all the time. Anyone knows whats wrong? Should I pull the head off and have a look?

Posted on: 2008/1/17 3:56
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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
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Hi DD, you were right, it was too lean. Had it adjusted, now the car idles like a charm. occasionally when i hit the throttle while driving (say from 2000 rpm) theres a slight jurk. I think it needs a bit more adjustments. But other then that it runs good. thanks guys

Posted on: 2008/1/14 2:17
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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
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If it's not too high (no more than the diameter of the dot above the dot), then I think it is no problem.

Quote:
when you first hit the throttle the enigne does not rev then suddenly takes off
Most commonly this is caused by too lean.
Make sure the idle is correctly adjusted (600-800 rpm) and then the idle mixture. If that doesn't fix it, look for vacuum leaks.

If the engine does nothing when you first hit the throttle: lean

If the engine goes "blaaah" when you first hit the throttle but doesn't accelerate for a second, that might be too rich.

Now for either condition there is no "adjustment" (other than idle or mixture), so you need to look for something "wrong", broken or not working right.

Posted on: 2008/1/11 6:09
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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
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Hi everyone.

Trasfered the carb in. runs much better now, smoother and the best part, no leaks and no petrol fuems. haha. But... The petrol level is a bit high in the carb, goes above the dot on the viewing glass. I think this is causing a flat spot in the acceleration. It happens when you first hit the throttle the enigne does not rev then suddenly takes off. What do you guys think?

Posted on: 2008/1/11 1:16
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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
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thanks for the article dd. Maybe the fumes are emitting from the already cracked carb. I shall see how the fumes are after the swap. thanks guys

Posted on: 2008/1/10 6:54
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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
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Solving the fuel or exhaust smell problems is difficult. But I eventually solved it in my 1200.

It can be a combination of things. So when you think "I found it", the problem still remains.

Read and study this, then go out and look over your 1200 with a fine tooth comb. Troubleshooting Fuel Smells. My 1200 had every single problem listed -- some a little, some a lot -- which is why it took me so long to figure it all out.

Posted on: 2008/1/10 5:39
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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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aahhh sounds like the beutiful smell of a datsun (quite normal for a datsun to smell like fuel)

Posted on: 2008/1/10 4:44
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Re: Anti Diesseling valve
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Sorry guys, I have another question, I seem to be getting fumes comng into the cabin. Kind smells like burnt engine oil+fuel. But I cant seem to trace the problem. It only appears after reving the enigne a bit harder. could it be a leaking sump gasket? I checked the exhaust manifold, but theres no leak. Im wondering if theres a leak in the exhaust pipe. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Posted on: 2008/1/10 3:58
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