a lil off topic but i know that with sr20det you are better off running the sr20de pendulem its bigger and thats normaly the only part of a sr20de you can sell lol so some rumers are true
like the z32 air flow metre is a instance upgrade on a ca18det

even though the engine is supposedely been rebuilt already i am getting my mechanic to to a complete strip down rebuild anyway to make sure and for my own piece of mind,
i am going to have all gaskets replaced with the heavy duty type of metal gaskets,
the paint is already going to be stripped and re-done,
already have the r31 shortened diff,
got brake calipers out of a 4runner, so i am going with 15" wheels
using a S13 radiator
using 200B or 180B (can't remember which) front struts and will have to get some ventilated discs made up,
Auto's don't have a clutch so dont need a better one!
are going to replace every hose....we have braided turbo lines and a treated water line already (that is what Luke said)



ummmmmmmmm anything else you would suggest?

the hundreds of things are more about reliability, than power. Power costs money. Wads of it.

CA18 is known for unreliabilities caused by hoses splitting. And oil/breather passages getting blocked.

- reduce number of water hoses.
- replace all hoses remaining, if you can still get them from Nissan.
- get a decent rebuild using Nissan gasket set.
- make sure the engine is fully cleaned out, not just a rings, bearings and hone job.

Start saving every dollar, so you can:
- Get a decent clutch
- spend the money on better brake pads
- get a better radiator.
- get a better trim job
- get better suspension
- get a better paintjob
- get a better diff
- get better wheels
- afford to replace all oil seals on engine, gearbox, and diff.


Get the engine in the car and get it drivable. Worry about nothing else about the car until it is registered.

apparently RB20 are bigger and are a bolt on, do the normal first, 3" exhaust, front mount cooler, at least a 25G or T28, chip the ecu. then wind some boost into it, (holy #### the diffence boost makes) from 7 to 14psi

if you had like a huge 3- 4'' turbo out
and a even bigger plenim
and a 2'' throttle between
ok then
but the stock 1 will do you fine even with a slightly bigger turbo
look else where for cheap hp cause you will be dissapointed

I know we are putting a bigger turbo on it

The CA intake system is designed for optimum efficiency with the stock turbo charger or simular T28 etc.

Usually when you increase to a larger turbo, producing alot more boost you look at changing the intake system for one which is more efficent in terms of flow into the engine at the higher boost pressure. Hense the G Ready plenums or simular for the SR20 motors.

A few people make a custom job and make it too big and infact reduce the horse power of the engine as the science and dynamics of the plenum are wrong. It's above my head and would look for people with these systems on their CA. Ask them what their engine is like to drive as well as Hp on the dyno.

Thanks for the quick responses guys i really appreciate it....

Chris: Quote:

care to name a few of them coz as you know i am pretty clueless about it all!

allow more air through into the engine, which will allow more fuel into the engine, which means more power out of the engine, without any compromise on drivability.

whether or not it's neccessary is up for debate, as there are probably more restrictive sections on the intake of the engine than the throttle body, but it can't hurt to try...

They do nothing much, unless the engine is worked. I'd love to have the time to disprove all of these 'budget hotup tips' that circulate on the internet.

It's all about airspeed and flow inside the plenum. There are a 100 other things you could do before thinking about putting a larger throttle body on.

I'd considered using the RB30E TB, but never remember to take the allen keys with me to the wrecking yard.

Also there'd be a bit of work to adapt all of the electronics and cable linkages. Not really worth the trouble.