you can "weld" plastic. It's something that a specialist panel beater can do. I'm not sure how they do it (maybe heat to a specific temp and add liquid plastic or something???) but i have had a few motorbike fenders welded after they broke, so it is do-able.

Its plastic. Nothing is ever easy.

are they plastic rad tanks/hose outlets or steel? If steel it should cost very little ($20 maybe) to get it cut and angled up like phunk said.

edit: just saw that phunk edited, ignore this post lol

That's not a bad idea Mik....hmm I knew there was a reason I posted on this forum sometimes.

I'll look into it - hopefully Repco sell something I could use to reinforce rad hose.

comon mildman, just tap a lillte bit of clearance there in the rail on the budget racer.... the rust should move out of the way too

surely if you were using bonnet pins then maikng some clearance on the bonnet support wont really matter i fyou reinforce it again.

Also as long as you aware of rubbing hose, couldnt you just place an thing sheath or sleave on it so that rubs instead of the pipe, along the lthought process of braided lines etc, the proper stuff no tthat dodge supercrap autobarnwhore rubbish covering stuff

as racinaround said, get one that goes both ways, BOC gasses also offer hire bottles on a daily basis, so if you get everything ready to go and hire a bottle for the day, you may end up with a better finished product.

Mild

If you go for the gasless wire feed I would suggest actually getting one that is equipped to go either way. Don't know what brand names you have down there, or which big box stores but if you go to Home Depot and get the Lincoln it can be used either with or without gas (read the info on the box) and gives you some flexibility later for nicer looking welds.

The gasless is actually a good option for ranch and farm where you may have to weld outside in a breeze as this blows the gas shield away and makes the welding really dodgy. Welding with the gasless wire (flux core) gives you a weld that looks pretty good and has plenty of penetration, it is just looks a bit like a stick weld when you're done. Clean it up with a wire brush on the grinder and it will look fine.

Anyway, I would suggest spending a little bit more to get a recognized name brand rather than getting a "cheapy" that will ber little more than a toy.

Could be a few Phunk....a friend of mine offered to do a little welding - I'll see if he was serious.

Otherwise might be time I bought a cheapy gasless MIG to learn the ropes with.

I dont think a little recess is going to affect the strength of the car if its welded in. You wouldnt even need to go 10mm deep with the recess.
If you cut into the bonnet frame and dont weld in a plate, it will look ugly and if you cut it out altogether your bonnet will bounce around.
As you have no welder, maybe best to take the radiator and get an angled pipe welded on so that the outlet is more directed in the direction it needs to go. (edit I now see its only aluminium intercooler and plastic radiator tanks. Cant really weld on a new pipe now. )

I wonder how many dodgy 1200s are out there with rubbing bottom hoses?

Yeah that's what I was thinking, I've got a little Al left over from the intercooler brackets - I could rivet those in to the front xmember and lift those little rubber mounts up a bit higher, but then I'll end up cutting the bonnet reinforcement.

I'm just surprised I haven't heard anyone have trouble fitting an S13 rad in - I thought it would be perfect fit.

Another case of the old 'it will bolt straight in' I think.

I would rather cut bonnet than rear members of the car - as I assume they are more structural, and more prone to me screwing it up.

I'll find some washers and see how high I can space it on the current grommits, might be enough - depends on how big the rad hose grows under pressure.