yeah last time i put the turbo in i filled it with oil,filled the lines with oil nd the oil cooler so it was sure to have oil there when itstarted but when i was puttin the turbo in, it did feel a bit tight to spin but i assumed it was gonna free up as i broght a "rebuit" turbo. i have had a turbo #### itself from lack of oil but that was due to an oil line that got kinked when the car rolled of the trailer but i hve fixed that problem from happening again but since then i do my best to fit the turbo making sure its all perfect and ready to go with out anything to worry about

I can back that up - if you assemble the wheel to the shaft in the same 'clocking' that it was, you haven't affected the balance so it'll be ok (if it was to begin with of course)

You can actually get rebuild kits for them and diy it - unless it's damaged the shaft in which case it might need to be polished/turned down and oversize (or is that technically undersize) bush/bearings utilised.

Anther quick tip - when starting the motor for the first time, pump oil with an oil can into the turbo, then hold the compressor wheel (*gently of course) with air intake off, whilst someone else cranks the motor over with the plugs out, do it with a slightly cracked open oil feed pipe to the turbo, and have them do this until oil starts to flow out the pipe/flange, then re-tighten, fit plugs and proceed. I'd go a little further and suggest pumping a little oil into the turbo centre as soon as you get it, as speaking for myself - any turbo I have on a bench, every man and his dog picks the damn thing up and twirls the compressor around!

It _is_ actually possible the turbo was ok as far as the seller knew. If the last time it was shut down, it was shutdown hot, or some other unforseen issue, then it might have lead to coking of the oil still in the turbo centre/bearing area, and it ran fine right up until then.

Generally speaking, as much of an extra headache as it is, I always buy s/hand turbos on the basis they 'are' stuffed and pay accordingly. That way if they turn out ok, bonus, if not, well I haven't dropped a lot of money on them, and the money saved will cover a rebuild.

from what i have gleaned over my years of tinkering with turbos,
you WILL (if I did not make that claer) WILL need a carbon front seal if you want your motor to run for more than a few seconds, before fouling the plus with oil.

Iv found they index turbo balancing off the shaft and exhaust wheel , and only take material off the turbine wheel.
So I just line up the index marks on the shaft and wheel and bob should be your uncle.
Iv done this a few times, once re-building a std. tarbin, and a couple of times with "hybrid" style turbos, (one compressor on another turbine)
they all seem to run fine with no balance problems.
If your running a draw thru set-up, Id recomend getting it rebuilt with a carbon seal. (if your running a draw thru set-up you WILL need a carbon seal)

G O T H E C A R B O N S E A L !
G O T H E D A T! ...

well i pulled the turbo apart today if it was rebuilt it was along time ago or somethin but this thing was clogged up with junk it the back plate behind the turbine wheel and the core. it now spins so a spining turbo is better than on that is not but the least it will do is blow smoke. i am aware that pulling a turbo apart will make it unballanced when re asembled but there are ways of getting it close, well to what it was

my first turbo had the carbon seal but i no this doesnt not my only concern atm is getting the engine to work again. this is a draw thru set up with some type of su carby.

Harzut?...
what sort of turbo set-up are you running on the A-series?
I run a draw-thru carb. set-up and these type of set-up require a carbon front oil seal as opposed to the std. dymanic (piston ring) type seal. Without this carbon seal the vacuum from the inlet and the closed throttle butterfly on the carb cause the oil from the turbo core to be sucked into engine.
But as I think I can see an intercooler in your avatar I doubt you running this type of set-up if this is indeed the car in question?
I`v been stung a few times with `sight unseen turbo purchases`, I bought a T3/4 hybrid (which had been "re-built") I fitted over sized bearings and had the shaft re-ground. I then had to buy a mistsashiti scorpion to fit it to (because the manifolds looked to good to bin).
The latest and greatest tarbin I bought was an ebay "chinese" item, I cost me $200 on the front door (tas.), It was way too big for the A-Series, So I fitted a SIV rx7 compressor cover and fitted it to my 280c.
I know thats not much help, But chin up dude and " Always speak soft, sweet words.....Because one day you might have to eat them."

G O T H E A- S E R I E S
G O T H E B- S E R I E S
G O T H E D A T ! .

well a photo will show if its been rebuilt or not ,

a ca t25 turbo would have worn down fins but if its rebuilt should be mint

what do you need the pick for?

pic of turbo showing the front wheel plz :)

the turbo is a t25 stock ca turbo i think i payed 150 for. it was about 9 months ago when i got it and whats pissed me off the most is that i got this turbo in order to iliminate a problem in my car as my previous turbo shat itself and my motor was running the best due to the carby so once i got this turbo and i took along time putting it on making sure everything was right. but yeah thinking that i got a good turbo and now my motor was still running bad if not worse led me to believe there may have been more problems with it other than just the carby. i dont expect to get a refund or whatever its just that when you buy something hoping to solve a problem but doesnt then you give up on it and then find out some time down the track that youve been ripped off

wat turbo is it and wat did you pay ?