I'll see if I can make is there a exact location I can map quest for directions?

Glad to hear it.

Are you coming to the Des Moines meet this Sunday 12-4pm?

Well I think I fixed it all I re wired the box with Blade style fuses fixed a few grounds and put the correct fuses in it and well nothing appears to be getting hot :crossesfingers: Thanks for the help guys

Yes, fuse box has no 'ground' (earth) -- it is all HOT stuff.

TIP: In general car wiring, WHITE or RED is usually a HOT wire. Black is usually ground.

Where is Dr. Funk when we need him? He's a sparky, isn't he?


LeDevil, glad to hear you found part of the problem. The 30A fuses will allow too much current to flow, melting the box instead of blowing at 10, 15 or 20A as designed.

Your next step is to find out why so much current is flowing.
* YES: check the voltage output at fast idle. If it's over 15V, that is a huge problem.
* If you have a 30A ammeter, you can test which lines have too much current through them. Nothing except headlights should draw more than 10A (I think).
* The traditional method to find the heavy current draw is to disconnect everything on the circuit, and put them back one at a time.

For example: For fuse "Horn/Stop/Hazard", disconnect the wires at the Horn, the Stop lights (in trunk). If it no longer get hot, plug one back in. Hot yet? Plug the next in. Hot yet? This way you can pin down where the problem is (or is not).

Well found part of my problem over half of my fuses were 30ampers. The other ones were 20's. I rewired the whole fuse block with in line fuses and it all seems tobe good now :crossfingers:

Well, I'm trying to sort through some electrical issues with my ute at the moment. Inline fuses aren't polarised, ie they do not have a positive or negative side. They are designed to be placed inline of the flow of current, hence the term inline fuse. The white wire, according to the wiki, connects to the 'A' terminal on the voltage regulator. Therefore, it probably wouldn't be a good idea to connect that wire to the chassis.

I would suggest that you check your voltage regulator and your alternator to make sure that it isn't overcharging, as the more current and amps you push through a wire, the more resistance it creates (yep, good ol R=V/I comes into play here). And resistance, creates 'friction', and therefore produces heat.

The alternator in my ute (was Hitachi LT-135), was playing around on me like this, except I got it before my wires melted. Instead of replacing or adjusting the voltage regulator, I swapped out the alternator for a 55amp Mitsubishi internally regulated unit off of a C20 Vanette, which has an A15 engine, therefore was a straight physical swap with some minor wiring changes. So now, I've got an extra 20amps to play with, and my ute runs better, however I still need to chase down the bad earths that melted my speedo cable.

Seeing as my work didn't have the relays I did what Ddgonzal said and just put in a inline fuse using same size wire gauge and correct fuse rating and now I have MORE NEW issues!! So here goes (See pic for reference)

Ok so the yellow lined fuse gets HOTT! when I put the key in the on position and cools right back off once I turn the key off

The Purple gets hott as soon as I pull out the lights for running lights only and gets cold as soon as I turn it off. It got hott enough it actually started melting the fuse box

Light Blue well it doesn't get hot any more that I can tell I upgraded it to a Blade fuse and well it doesn't feel hott.

Red wire can't remember what it went to but well now it gets hott and cools off once I turn off what ever it went to

All I did was installed a inline fuse didn't touch any other wires and now all these others fuses seem to get hot and hot as in burned the #OOPS# out of my finger touching them. I did notice that the BIG white wire coming off the fuse block got warm now aswell Can anyone tell me why this is happening and what the big white wire is I'm thinking it's a ground from the way it connects to the negative side of the fuses. So if it is a Ground could I just hack it off and run my own to the Chassis or where ever I want? I looked over the wiring diagram Ddgonzal gave me awhile ago and it seems my wires are different or I'm dumb and cant read the diagram.

only 1 fuse that will blow..and this fuse give a 'life' to the things that i've mentioned above..

any chance that this problems come from short-circuitry? and where should i start to check/trace the probs?

thanks.

Fuse Box

I can't think of a reason your fuse(s) would blow only after the engine revs up. Could it be vibration?

Meters and Brake (Stop) lights are two different fuses.