I have the same issue with my '80 210 wagon. I plan on getting some KYB gas shocks, and some wider tires and wheels. If that doesn't completely resolve the issue, I'll get a rear stabilizer bar.

Most shocks with visible fluid leaks are pefectly fine...

You can test them easily enough. Just push down on the corner of the car and let go. It should bounce only 1.5 time. If it bounces two or three times, replace the shocks.

If your shock is leaking then it may not have any oil left in it, therefore no damping.
I would recommend replacing them anyway if they are leaking regardless of action, they have seen enough km's to not be at their best.

Live axles can be tweaked for camber/toe quit easily, even in the car. Just use a blowtorch and heat the housing tubes to cherry red on the side you want to "shrink", then quench with water soaked rags. Start off with a small patch and check the alignment after every adjustment.
Did this with an escort atlas housing to straighten it right up after copping a massive hit and bending pretty severely.

Leakage on shock absorbers means nothing. The question to ask is: Do the shocks work correctly? If the shocks don't work, it could cause handling problems.

Is that toe-in measurement within specification?

Rear left toe = 0.25deg
Rear right toe = 0.3 deg

Also observed leakage on my rear left absorbers. Can this be the root cause?

Thanks

Yeah what DD said, unless you get the housing physically bent. Which can be done, but this is done to a bare housing normally on rebuild. The hard bit would be finiding someone to do it with any degree of accuracy.
Or just get a replacement and hope its better.
But definitely get a Wheel alignment and find out where you stand.

Camber won't cause this.

There is no adjustment for the rear toe. It is a live axle so the toe-in is non-adjustable.

Thanks for the inputs.

DD, the front tires are new (changed it abt 2 days ago)..but however, the problem still existed before i changed them. So, i would rule out its the front tire defect.
Secondly, the camber for both front tires are at -1 on both sides. I'll check for toe and castor settings later today.

nick_m, i dont think its bump steering since its happening at the rear. I faced bump steering issues long time ago, and changing the idler arm solved it.

Based on all your inputs, im suspecting it could be the rear toe. This part normally would be neglected since the setting could not be adjusted. By the way, any tips to get the rear adjusted? Im not sure on the toe, but the camber readings shows -0.5(left) & -0.6(right).

Thank you

I was thinking if the problem was a result of a non std coil rear end fitted. I would be checking for front alignment, bump steer or broken centre bolts. Front swaybar linkpin rubbers can transfer some looseness to the rear. Check U Bolts.

B310 has a live rear axle (as does B110 and B210), so if the rear toe-out is incorrect, there is no provision for adjustment. It should be 0 degres. If not a good alignment shop may be able to bend the housing to correct a minor imperfection. If it is out very much, the rear axle or housing is damaged.

VB310 (squareback wagon) used leaf springs.
WB310 (slopeback wagon) used coil springs.
No B310 used IRS, so it is unlikely there is a rear alignment problem unless it has been in a wreck.


Not sure about B310 castor, but B110 castor is minimal, and so the Datsun 1200 wanders more than most cars (which is normal for B110). Increasing the castor helps it track straight ahead much better than the stock specifications.