That mani on ebay with carb is only a round port.

Wreckers dont have anything these days for a 1000 and
the all diffs you find will need shortening and suspension
mount mods to fit (expensive). best stick to stock diff or
upgrade to h150 using Clyons8 h150 adapter.

SS custom exhaust will cost about 600-700 dollars done right
in store to suit your 1000, Id recommend stock modded headers
as few fit except for 280-300 dollar new ones from sydney mob.

Start simple then if you need more bling it up as money builds.
This project seems to need a lot of work so plan well.

best choice over the years as done by a few on this site for 1000s:

Put in an early a12 and source an a14 crank and a12a conrods.
This info is already on this site, check the Wiki or Tech info.
You bore to 76mm use milled a15 pistons, have counterweights
of a14 machined to fit early a12 block (dizzie at front not middle)
and use the later a12 conrods which have the right pin size.
This conversion will say a12 on your block and should pass inspection
as a10 are hard to find and sometimes they pass an extra 179cc.

Change to a12 clutch cable its better than a10. Machine your a10 flywheel
to suit bigger clutch from a14 and have everything balanced.

Mild camshaft similar to GX, Higher compression h89 head instead of h75
which is open chamber and needs to be milled for more comp and gets thin
after a few build ups. Short turn radius porting, clean up casting slags
and fit larger L16 exhaust valves. Match port oval port manifold with
32/36 and tuned professionally with electronic ignition. Match port your
choice of extractors or have some custom made depending on money left over.
Note: dont go too far on porting just cleaning up ports and improving the
short turn radius is all you need. Overporting will make it a pig down low.
You could go slightly higher comp with the pistons making sure you mill them
to deck heigh then have valve recesses machined. Milling head weakens it and
reduces the value of a now very hard to find h89 item.

Does the datsun 1000 flywheel works in the A14 like the A12 flywheel?
Best regards.

So the weber 32/36 downdraught carb is looking like a definite in this build.

Just a question, looking ebay I've come across two webers:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WEBER-CARB-POR ... m2a0df11101#ht_546wt_1139

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan ... uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

One being new at $280 and the other a recon at $700.

Whats up with that? the higher price has a manifold with it, is this why there is such a large pricing gap? Or am I missing something?

Laidlaym: Thanks for the offer but right now I'm looking at probably getting at seeing about a custom stainless steel. Well, seeing how much it will cost anyway! :)

Cylons8: What are the main diferences between the H89 or H75 head? What would you choose in this situation? Also in regards to the diff, do you know which diff would be a suitable replacement? Looks like I will taking a visit down to the wreckers soon enough to find some donors.

I've got a set of 4-2-1 extractors hanging on the wall of my shed. They used to be in the B10 but with the short A10 motor they were too close to the ground for a rally car. I think they were originally 1200 (B110) extractors. I had them coated in some high temperature stuff so they are in good condition. I'm in Melbourne (Eltham area) if you are interested in looking at them.

Mark

Ok so I've given up on the EFI track, Carby does indeed look like the better option.

With respect to upgrading diff, custom extractors I should be ok, I've factored in around 4k for odds and ends for the car, and if it goes over budget, oh well ;)

I'll see if I can disseminate all this info in time for when I need to put the engine in.

Quote:
Carby setup is free (comes with the A14). EFI is about $2500.

Yeah look cjproperty I'm being a little over the top about the drive-ability. So seeing your budget you'd probably be fine.

A heavily worked engine is good fun, but I can say if I need to buzz to the bottle shop or to the shops I tend to take the family car as it's a less demanding drive.

The only thing I would suggest from here on is if you do put a worked A14 in you may need to look for a 60series 4 speed or 5 speed to handle the extra power. You would almost certainly need to upgrade the diff as well, you can change for a bigger diff altogether or upgrade the centre and hope that the axles don't give way. So keep those in mind in your costings.

Also remember extractors for a 1000 are extremely hard to come buy so you would most likely have to get a custom made setup. I can't imagine a set costing less than $700 unless you have some good connections, so that's another thing to consider with costs.

as Chris suggests balancing etc is well worth it, mild cam, extractors, 1.75ish inch exhaust, bit of polishing and porting on the head, electronic distributor, lighten the flywheel a bit, and a weber 32/36 downdraught carb would probably spend your $3k if its all shiny new and rebuilt and be a nice compromise between drivability and fun. If you can get 90 to 95 horsepower in your little ute you'll be laughing

LOADS of info there Cylons8! Thanks for all of that.

Well considering my lack of experience and the information you've provided it does look like it isn't the best idea to HP it up.

Lagwagon does indeed look great, I'll have to try see what info I an glean from that thread for ideas.

Power street engine does sound a lot smarter. I've taken note of all your suggestions, a bit stuck on the Carby vs. EFI part. I know these questions are way too open ended, but how much difference in price would a carby vs. EFI setup be?

Essentially guys the build like mentioned is a daily driver, but I'd like a little bit under the hood because sadly the only other vehicle I've had was a '97 civic :(

Quote:

The general issue is higher HP A-Series engines mean higher revs which means you sacrifice the bottom end power to make it happen up top. So they become quite a handful to drive in cities and suburbs as you are forever using your gears to have the right rev range (power-on) to suit the drive, hill, corner, decent etc.

The next issue with big HP is big torque, this will need you to upgrade both gearbox and diff as the slightest bit of punishment will see them split. If you drive like a granny then stick with the stock diff and gearbox but that sorta defeats the purpose of you having built the engine.

So I guess the trick is to make a powerful street engine, which is where you should start looking at forced induction, or manifold design and specific cam profiles. (But even turbo engines can be a bit of drama).

Personally, I would build something more like this.