Finally had a chance today to remove the head and go for the
suggested options but the 3mm was with thread was all rusted out
so i went straight to welding.
Covered the engine up and used a small steel plate with a hole to go
over the stud then got my trusty Cig/tig welder out and plenty of goes
and failures of nuts coming apart as I tried to torue them off the last
one worked. Phew!! major drama saved. Now to put in the late studs.

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bakat & dave are right, that method works wells if the bolts a bit loose otherwise it can be a losing battle. I've used a sharpened center punch that way, as long as the punch "bite's" into the bolt, just try not to mess up the bolt hole or block face around the bolt - sometimes it just creates more problems.

good luck.

I second bakat's method. Even though the original broke, it may turn out fairly easy. Try rorating it out with a punch, as you would remove the headless bolts of the steering lock. Takes a long time but might come right out.

A10 and A12 Head Bolts are interchangeable. B110 bolts are stronger than B10 bolts. The '13' bolts are the last revision and are even stronger. The center bolt differs between early and late blocks.

not sure maybe in any case the front dizzie gx is considered early.
the early are 10 x1.25
late 10 x1.5 ??

The '13' high tensile bolts are different? Are you sure? I didn't think this was the case.

Forgot about the 13 late bolts not suited to the a10 bugger.
Well looks like Ill just have to get the arp head stud kit
while the dollar is good. if they have the early size.

been in this situation once. have no tool to extract that remain, so i just get a big nail, and hammer the remain so that the remain gets turned counter clock wise. takes about an hour.



i know my english sucks :)

Make sure you check the threads [and the other nine] in the deck as well. It would be unfortunate if a different bolt failed as a result of repairing the first breakage. 10x1.5 or 10x1.25 [cant remember] bottom out tap to clean the threads in the deck. You could have the off and back on, at a casual pace in less than 1/2 a day

Here I was originally thinking I could get a long enough titanium drill bit to try and
then use an easy out. bad idea will try vice grips first if possible then the nut welding.
thanks again

forget easy outs, you'll break those too. If it only 2.5MM above the block deck best bet would be to pull the head & weld a new hex head bole onto the broken one then unbolt it. I'd prep the broken bolt by flattening the top if its sheared in as funky way.

There is always vice grips as a 1st attempt prior to welding.

good luck!

OK, read your last post more thoroughly, so you have threads above the block? If so the nut idea isn't bad but I'd consider running it down to the block surface then infilling the remaining exposed inside portion of the nut with a spot / plug weld then welding another bolt on top of it for removal. You'll probably only get one shot at this before its a block trip to the machinist.