Don't do it by ear, it'll have a 'range' of initial timing (lets say hypothetically from 4-8 degrees) where it will all run very similar, and the problem is then it will have the wrong amount of timing higher in the rpm range, that sort of thing.

I'll put it another way - find a guy who sets timing by ear, then get him to set it for you. then check with a timing light and record the actual timing he dialled in. Then drive the car around the block, and alter the timing, and drive it back to him, and ask him to set it again by ear. Then check it. what do you think the odds are that it will be a couple of degrees different this time :)

It's actually quite amazing what float level settings can achieve, About the most significant I've seen (and in this case I'm talking about a situation where it ran 'good' in the first place, not where it was stalling or something) - on a hk holden with 186 and a holley 500, well it would idle and drive fine, but like all motors, it would not like to be in 4th gear (manual box) at below around 15-20mph. (which corresponded to about 800rpm) it'd be fine at light throttle, but try and give it full throttle at those low rpm, and it'd be shaky (and for the record it wasn't an acc pump issue). I took it to a local area with flat roads, and started deliberately too high, then adjusted lower about 0.5mm at a time, and eventually got it to handle 5mph at full throttle in 4th. It didn't go 'great' or fast till it got a few more rpm on board- but it was smooth as silk.

Ironically, the idle rpm/quality wasn't noticeably different by ear from start to finish.

First get it running to the specifications, then you can tune it "by ear".

But I think you won't have to change the timing for altitude if you set it to spec.

Normally on a Datsun the only thing for high altitude (above 4,000 ft) is to rejet the carburetor a bit leaner. Many stock A14 carburetors will adjust itself for altitude but the weber will not.

Ok will do. Perhaps a dumb question, but someone at a shop I stopped by mentioned the timing should be set by ear since Im at an altitude of about 5000 ft. Not sure if that's true...but in what other adjustments should altitude be taken into consideration?

Glad to hear the alternator is working now.

Setting the float level in Weber 32/36 is similar to how it's done in many motorcycles. Instructions are on the Weber web site.

Don't do any adjusting until the float level is set correctly.

What you don't want to do is adjust all the knobs and sliders looking for a good setting. Instead, set it to the manufacturer's settings. Weber has step-by-step settings on the web site.

For Datsun A15, set the timing to 7 degrees BTDC. No more and no less. Make sure the distributor vacuum advance is not connected to the intake manifold.

For A14/A15, set idle speed to 750 RPM. Then adjust the mixture, and if the speed changes at the best mixture, set it back to 750 RPM and re-adjust the mixture until the mixture is correct at 750 RPM.

The order these things are done are important. Timing and float level are first as everything else depends on them.

Quote:

This idea had crossed my mind. It would make sense, as if I really gradually stop, or stop from a low speed, it doesn't stall out as easy. I've checked float levels a number of times on motorcycles, but I'm not very familiar with this carb. Any quick way to do this? (I should probably check the forums before asking..)

Sorry I will clarify... Messing with the screw does make changes, I meant that if I play with the mixture screw and timing, and get the engine to where it will idle and drive (granted the changes cause the car to run differently,) the car stalls at stops. I have tried various settings with different timing and mixture screw positions as a test, and regardless of how it is set, the car will stall upon stopping.

I bought the car with the carb installed, although the engine wasn't hooked up. This past winter, the car ran decently, but I never got a chance to really drive it and let gremlins present themselves.

By the way, I think you helped out with my alternator questions. New alternator is installed and working great! Thanks

check the float level in the carb too. if it's considerably high or low, when fuel sloshes forward under brakes it can either let too much in (if set too high) since it'll 'think' there's less in there as the float isn't pushed as hard upward if fuel is sloshing forward. Alternately, if it's too low, it can uncover a jet or emulsion hole or similar to the point it runs rough enough to stall (much easier to stall since throttle position is at idle and rpm is at its lowest.

Normally it's a vacuum leak that causes these symptoms. They are usually non-obvious leaks.

But in your case, this is the biggest clue:
Quote:The idle mixture screw on a weber 32/36 should make hugely noticeable changes. Since adjusting the screw results in no changes, something major is wrong with the carburetor or carburetor installation.

Did it run good at one time, and this just recently started? Or has it always had this problem since you fitted the Weber?

Hey guys, just trying to figure out how to get this car running smooth. Stock A14 w/ Weber 32/36 carb. Starts up and idles just fine (perhaps a little rough if anything.) The car drives fine, plenty of power, good response, etc....until I stop. Clutch down, no gas....stalls out unless I give it a bit of gas.

No matter what I do with timing or air/fuel mixture screw on carb, nothing changes. I haven't found any noticeable vacuum leaks or anything obviously wrong. Engine is in good shape...compression test is near perfect. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help.