definitely echo comments about doing the brakes and suspension first then the motor. Make it safe, then fast, so to speak. And doing the mods/upgrades to the suspension will help you get an appreciation for both the potential, and the limitations, of the car.

An interesting thing - if you start driving it with the stock motor and upgraded handling, you'll get a great opportunity to really fine tune your driving. When you haven't got bulk power to 'cover up' shortcomings in driving style, you have to learn corner exit and entry, braking application (smoothness in general) and turn in. All these things can only get better (and there isn't a single person here who couldn't get just a little better than they currently are, so I don't mean it as if 'you' yourself need more skill or something, I don't mean it like that at all!) then when you get to a motor with more grunt, you'll have a much better foundation to truly make the most of it.

I'm thinking upgrading my brakes and steering before I place in a new engine, just trying to think smart about how to go about this car, cheers b310gx for those contacts.

If you want to stick to the A series, A14 or A15, have a talk to BigE, His business is building A series engines for Speedway, but has also built street motors for members. Try sending a PM or call ATE engines on 0412864741 or email ateracing@hotmail.com. You can also try Stewart Wilkins at SWR Rallying on 02-4577-2400 or www.swmotorsport.com.au, or Jeff Taylor at JTS.
If you want to try an L series or a CA18, again call SWR. They have a large workshop near Windsor & Stewart's been rallying cars for a couple of decades.

personally, I'd use an L16 or L18. Still carbed so easy to engineer. Conversion itself is not too difficult. Can be done with the standard manual transmission tunnel if you pay attention to what you're doing. Either L16 with L18 crank or L18 with L16 rods. Mill standard pistons to flat tops at around zero deck height and choose your own CR, a works 76 cam grind and twin 40s. Made 116rwbhp in my old coupe. You'd be well and truly in the low 14s.
Plus you get strong cheap 5spds with the L series conversion. An A series running 14s will blow gearboxes regularly.

Do the suspension and brakes first then start on the motor, if you put a motor in the car that makes it run mid-14's the stock brakes and suspension will spoil the fun. You could also upgrade the cylinder head while you build a fresh bottom end. Flat top pistons, cam that pulls from about 3K to 7K and then add good cylinder head. To get the acceleration you want you'll going to need close to 100 RWHP, this is what a full race A12 puts out, so the A14 or A15 will still need to be fairly roarty..............I'd say don't get hung up on a set number just build a good solid street motor, that combined with suspension and breaks will make a fun car.


Tom

Hey pigdog was it you who started that 1200/120y strut thread a while ago??? I tried looking for it and never could....

And a h165 should be fine for most NA 4 cylinder engines in a 1200 if you aren't constantly doing burnouts and such. They hold up to turbo CAs if you drive normally

I wouldn't bother with the stock disc front end, they won't really do any better than well adjusted drums. And its only the later aus assembled 120y struts that have the larger stub axle. Only reason to go standard disc struts would be if you are going to put s13 or similar front brakes onto them

best way to learn, i learnt by building a ute with my old man from ground up. was the best learning experience id ever had!!
Dont know enough about the diff bolts and studs, someone else may know more...
If your ute is still running front drums, it shouldnt be too hard to find a set of disc front struts somewhere going cheap enough.
I do know many people choose to go with 120y struts, i believe the shock tube diameter is the same, however the stub axle is much larger allowing you to run bigger brakes. Chuck a decent set of shocks in them ie. konis..... haha maybe a little pricey but worth it! Check it all out in the tech wiki...
otherwise, upgrade your front sway bar, and throw a 120y one in, you go from i think its a std 17mm 1200 sway bar to a 20mm, so far ive heard nothing but compliments of the noticeable difference it makes to your everyday handling.

I read somewhere that one of the stock diffs have studs and the other has bolts ? I'd love to upgrade to front disc brakes though and upgrade handling. This is my first project and dont want it to be too technical, kind of my way of getting into the whole building cars scene.