already bought rings. 35$ your money lol. just came back from shop. told the machinist to mill the piston flat, zero deck height. can't afford pistons slapping head lol

I havent heard of conrods expanding for stretch when hot.
The ozdat cslculator says they sit 2.205mm above block height.
So as long as machined flat to block height the head gasket usually 1mm thick once torqued so should be enough I would think

Gonna have to buy new rings at least and usually around 70-120 depending on quality and availability.

116whp that sounds very promising. Currently i am building an engine just like that, l18 crank and pistons, l16 rods. How much do you think would be safe for squish clearance? i fear the pistons will hit the head when the engine is hot (conrod expanding

Angle grind them?
Prefer if ghetto build to just leave 85mm no boren Then its just rings bearings and seals. New pistons maybe but I have l18 ones here.

88mm +1mm over Z22E pistons with L16/24 rods 1898cc and revs

dont get carried away by the brand Mik but this is the getto
way to lighten slugs on the skirt, works for my stock A12 :)

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depends what CR you want ;)
It was a long time ago, but I think I took about .080" (2mm) off for about .010" positive deck height - ie piston crown above block height at TDC. With my cyl head that gave about 10.8:1 CR IIRC.

How much milling do the pistons tend to need

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Yep. And you're close already. L18 crank, L16 or L24 rods, and mill the L18 pistons for the desired deck height. you can also shorten the skirts a bit if you want. That's what we've been doing for decades up here, and what was in my old L18 coupe. Junker motors FTW! With a 76 cam grind and a peanut chambered head with very minor tickling (polished standard valves, tapered guides and minor pocket area work) and twin 40mm sidedraughts it made 116rwbhp and was a regular 1601-2000cc class winner. You'd get alot more out of it with a better cam and proper headwork.

No sense spending the coin to get an L20 crank in an L18 block unless you are forced to use an L18 block for historic racing. Just drop the whole L20 in there. Better rod/stroke ratio standard. Much better again with Z20 internals...

Benny spoke with stu. He grinds crank down but uses after market rods and forged pistons. He knows his stuff but way outta my budget.

Im only looking at a streeter or club car not a full racer.

Rod angle of 19 deg might be an issue to bore it. Might put too much side load on bores wearing pistons and bores prematurely.
L20 crank with l18 rods and z20s pistions says 11cr
Thats 85mm bore and 2lt. Should be grunty but not revvy.
Might be better making a revvy motor for track. L18 crank l16 rods and z20s pistons... vroom vroom