The biggest you can have an A series motor out to would be 1500, you know what I found once that the e15 is exactly the same capacity and size piston and same piston and rings in size as the A15 and E16 r now this crank in the E16 with its conrods should fit in the A15 or A14 as the A14 and A15 have the same piston diameter, just the strokes are longer in the cranks from A15 to A15, like E15 to E16,,,ahhhhh only one problem remains will you need a lower piston height or shorter conrod?????
I need more info before confirmation
Well well e15 has 82mm stroke and the E16 has 88mm stroke now what is the conrods??

what is the biggest that you can get an A series out to?

I LIKE THE COUPE BEST SO THATS WHAT THIS IS GOING TO BE
KEEP IT LIGHT A 15 BORED OUT TO 2LTR AND RESLEAVED (IF POSSABLE) FORGED PISTONS, RODS ,CRANK ,G.T.i.R QUAD THROTTLE BODYS ,12:1 COMPRESSION RATIO ,MOTEC M8 COMPUTER,LIGHT FLY, PUNMATIC TITAINUIM VALVES , DRY SUMPED ,ELECTRIC DIZZY

NOW THE GEARBOX SUNNY 5 SPEED RIP THE GUTS OUT GET A CUSTOM DESINGED 6 SPEED HYDRAULIC SEQUENTIAL SHIFT TITAINUIM DRIVESHAFT CUT DOWN FORD 9 INCH DIFF

FRONT END
BILSTIEN HIGHT ADJUSTABLE STRUTS ,CAMBER PLATES WILWOOD 4 POT CALIPERS VENTED SLOTTED DISC BUT NOT DRILLED ( AS THEY CRACK) 22MM SWAY BAR ROSE JOINTED BOTTOM ARMS AND CASTOR RODS NOLATHANE RIGHT THROUGH
REAR END BILSTIEN UPRIGHTS WITN EXTRA LEAF PUT IN AND RESEAT - 5 DEGRES WILLWOOD 2 SPOTS AND SLOTTED AND VENTED DISC
STEERING HIGH RATIO STEERING
1 TURN LOCK TO LOCK

NOW THE BODY SHELL LIGHTEN THE HELL OUT OF IT TO COMPESATE FOR THE SIX POINT CAGE KEVLAR DOORS BONNET BOOT FRONT GUARDS, REAR GUARDS , ALL WINOWS ARE NOW LEXIAN MR10

BEAR IN MIND IF YOU BUILD YOUR MOTOR RIGHT IT SHOULD HAVE 400 HP THAT IS THE MAXUIM YOU WILL EVER GET OUT OF A NA
2 LTR

RUN THE MOTOR IN BEST FOR 2000KMS AND USE FULLY SINTHETIC OIL AFTER THE FIRST OIL CHANGE GO TO TRACK ABSOLOUTLY RING ITS NECK

OK NOW IF FINISHED MY LITTLE DAY DREAM AND CRASHED BACK INTO REALTY

keep it simple. a14 block lightened balanced everything.road/ race cam. gas flowed ported and polished nisan gx head double valve springs. twin 40s. 4into1 big bore extractors. 5 speed sunny box. bluebird zxe struts adj. 280lb springs adj hight and potenza adj shocks. camber plates and lower arms etc. 10" vented disks and calipers (off zxe) all braded lines all nolathene. 13x7 minilights slicks. = 110hp rear wheels and 714kg (with 20 litres fuel). a good basic racer all easy to do and prety cheep.

I have given this a lot of thought, and heres my idea of the perfect 1200 racecar...I would build 2, the first would be built using all the good stuff from the Nismo catalogue and feature steel panels and 13" Watanebe Minilite wheels. It would run a strong 1300cc A series with 45s and close ratio 5 speed. The only fibreglass panels would be the bubble flares and front and rear spoilers, and it would be covered in all the period decals. Now the other one would be totally radical, only the steel roof would remain from a standard car..it would have a full space frame chassis with unequal length A arm front suspension with alloy uprights and 14" discs with 6 pot calipers. The rear would house a Hewland 6 speed transaxle with 4 pots and 13" discs . The body would feature super wide Zakspeed style flares and all the panels would be composites of kevlar and carbon fibre.All the windows would be lexan. The powerhouse would be a twin turbo charged 4 litre Nissan V8 bored and stroked to 5 litres. Fuel injected of course and controlled by Motec computer. The wheels would have to be centre lock Simmons or BBS 17" rims....Hmmmm I better go buy another Lotto ticket.

Yeah cool, so I am a good fan of the SR and so are you, I have a Sunny Coupe with SR conversion, I did it all myself including the wiring harness. I tell you what I know how to do the wiring harness now. And its easier than I thought.
I should go to Sydney again I used to live in North Parra when I was working at the Shell Refinery in Rosehill. In my spare time, All I did was hang out at Alby's playing pool and drinking. I think back now,,,I was crazy.

Well yeah, weight is a race car's best friend. And obviously we are adding weight to the front end with the SR20. But, the difference between the CA and SR is negligable. There's really not much difference at all. But im sure the SR has more potential than the CA. Hence the SR being the best choice.

Lets look at it another way.

OK. We have a stock standard 1200. We upgrade the entire front end with, say, a Stanza front end. We change everything including the heavy L16.

Now we've added weight to the entire car and the front end is heavier. But, look at it this way. The whole front end is Stanza, and the shell 1200, handling will be no worse than a stock Stanza. In fact, handling will probably be better than a stock stanza cause the the 1200 weighs less than a Stanza.

You get me?

So, really, engine weight only affects the 1200 if you don't have the suspension to match it. Im sure the 1200 with an SR and race suspension will stick to the bitumen like #### to carpet. Obviously handling will be better again if we use an A15 etc

My 1200 has modified Skyline struts with 10" brakes. The engine is still an A15 but with 150hp. I am convinced that this setup is better than stock and will handle 100% better than stock. And weight is only a fraction heavier due to the 4 spot calipers and 10" rotors.

With this same front end setup I think engine choice is almost unlimited as it is a lot better than a stock 1200 setup.

That my way of thinking anyway!

Scotty

Dear Dear Scotty,
I admire the grin and imagination you have, its very strong,,, and I salute you for the effort. As you almost had me leaving without a challenge.
Everything you have said is very much the same idea as my car actually (Sunny Coupe).
About the engine what weight difference is there between the SR and the CA??
Do you honestly believe the 1200 can handle the SR?? Doesn't it make it front heavy??? which is a bit like pushing a heavier pendulum, harder to change direction.... eg from left to right and left to right...I have driven cars with a heavy front, an jeeez they feel doughy. A bit like trying to run fast in deep water.

The perfect Datsun 1200 race car. Sounds like my kinda topic. Now, there's quite a lot you can do with a standard Datsun 1200. Obviously. It's a simplistic design with a huge amount of potential.

Ok. So we have a stock standard 1200 coupe. Definitely the best decision for a race car. With its fastback shape, greater aerodynamics are achieved. Great choice, now lets get down to buisness.

Lets look at the big picture. We want a race car. Not a road car. So, the first thing we do is strip everything off the car back to bare metal and place it onto some jack stands. A decent size well-equiped workshop is ideal for this sort of procedure, but the backyard always works.

Ok, now what do we need? A plan. We need a Roll cage, Engine, Gearbox, Diff, Brakes, Suspension mods, Wheels, Tyres, Shockies, Gauges, Seat, harness, steering wheel and a fuel tank.

Pretty simple huh? No airconditioning I'm afraid!

I would start by seam welding the entire shell, fitting a role cage and painting it white and choose an engine. You've chosen an SR20det and has been sent to the engine guy for rebuilding.

First things first. Lets get it rolling again. Youve made your decision on the suspension. Were going to use all new bushes, ball joints, koni shock inserts, adjustable spring cup front struts with top camber adjustment, adjustable lower control arms, adjustable castor rods, adjustable sway bar, 10" rotors with four spot calipers. This is pretty standard on most race cars. Cool. Lets bolt those new 14" hotwires with racing slicks on the front!

OK. Now we need a diff. We want a race car so disc brakes are essential. Strength to cop a hammering on upchanges and down changes round corners must be taken into account. Also the engine itself will determine the diff size. As we've chosen an SR20det, we are expecting a figure of at least 200-250kw with mods, so a decent strength diff will be needed. If we want Nissan, an H190 works diff is the go. If not, Hilux cut, 10 bolt cut or some sort of solid diff with LSD and disc brakes will suit the purpose.

Before we can install the diff, we need suspension. Get the leaf springs reversed and lowered 1-5"- 2". Install with all new bushs. A modified rear spring link for ride height adjustment is also useful here.

Bolt in diff. Use standard shocky plates from the 1200 and modify to suit the size D-bolts you are using. Bolt in those brand new Koni adjustable shocks, chuck some wheels on and lower to ground.

Woohoo!! We have a rolling car!!!

That SR20det should be back from the engine guy now. Nice and clean with a little headwork, a new GT25 turbo, larger throttle body, new Motec computer, 3" dump, lightfly, new clutch wiring blah blah. Now lets fit the engine.

Modify the stock crossmember mounts to sit the SR20 as far back as possible. Some bashing or cutting might be needed to fit the 5 speed box and 3" dump pipe. Modify gearbox x member, sit engine into place for last time and fit tailshaft.

Sit back get a case of beer, look at car for at least 1-5 hours, get pissed and go over all your mods and check for imperfections. Or just check out what a awesome car the Datsun1200 is.

After a few days rest, wire up engine to computer, modify front to fit intercooler, pipework and radiator. Modify firewall for clutch cylinder. Hook up brake lines and fuel lines. Fit dry cell in boot. Fit any other part required to start engine. Now fit the interior.

Bolt in the Saas bucket seat, and harness. Fit all new gauges into a stock gutted dash and wire into harness. Bolt on steering wheel. Fit gear knob. Turn key. Hope.

With a bit of luck, the SR20 should be purring away.

Now we need all fibreglass panels, paint them all white and bolt on any flare kits or spoilers you decide to buy.

Hey now its looking like a race car!

Open door, get in, start engine and go for a drive. No burnouts! It needs running in! Drive for at least 600ks change oil then take to track and flog!! Whatever class this little beast is eligble for, it will kick ass.

What were we after again?

The perfect Datsun 1200 race car.

Scotty

I thought about the guidelines but then I alone can't set guide lines, would be good if Harry (L18_B110) was here coz he knows what the guidelines are in Sprints and and Circuit Racing, (I have seen him race he's not bad at all...hehehe ) anyways, I was thinking of Improved Production Class in the Under 2 litre, the motor has be the same make as the vehicle eg... Datsun and Nissan from A12 to A15, L16 to L20, Z18, CA18, FJ20 and SR20 and it can be turbocharged but then you are up against the sixes and V8 brigades, it doesn't matter however. No matter what class we pick its still a challenge.