Current setup
4agte


http://s205.photobucket.com/user/wogrocket/library/Datto

Cheers ddgonzal I'll give it a go 👍👍
Yea as for the bullet I've been bitten by the Hp bug many years ago
My supra currently makes 903 rwhp
Fg falcon ute 608 rwhp
Datto at the moment not sure but went 13.5 down the 1/4

Sounds like your build will be a bullet


For uploading photos, make sure they are 1280 px or less before uploading. You can use the free app "Resize Me" or something similar on your iPad

Sorry guys been a while since I've posted a pic on here. Just tried to upload some images off my iPad but not having much luck :(

As for power I'm hoping to make atleast 500 rwhp upto 700 rwhp 👍👍

Here's a pic of the current combo that I'm running

I've previously converted a 4agte and w55 box into it but want to go a bit further with the ute
So far I have for the build
Sr20 det block
Sr 20 vet head
Mazworks head and main studs
Plazmaman girdle
Taarks solenoid relocation kit and cas kit
Mazworks plenum
Built c4 auto
Hks t51r Spl bb

Just need to decide on rods and pistons and assemble the motor, also work out what size converter will work with the combo

Quote:Yes, you can modify the 1200 crossmember just like for L-series but put the holes a little forward, See L/Z/KA/SR Crossmember. Many here use 510 style (low profile) rubber insulators, the SR20 insulators are better but thicker. Escort style puck insulators are a good heavy duty choice for off-roading

Or you can use the Maddat SR20 crossmember. Most guys use generic puck-style insulators with that Maddat unit

SR20VET is from the X-Trail GT all-wheel-drive. What most guys do is get a Silvia SR20DET and swap the VET head

KA24DE is fine and make 156HP. A long long way from 280 hp of the SR20VET let alone the naturally aspirated SR16VE's 175 hp. Nissan VVL is the key feature

Dont forget the overlooked cheaper, easier to play with KA24DE head
On a 2.1 Z22 bottom end and L20B crank and H beam rods and
factory 89mm pistons. Z22 blocks take 89-90mm bore with ease

Thanks for the info ddgonzal 👍👍
For the fire wall I'll mostlikely move the whole section behind the motor back about 40mm to clear the taarks solenoid relocation kit (20mm thick ) compared to the vvl solenoids 115mm and will look a lot tidier in the long run and makes fun r easy install and removal of the motor so that I'm not damaging the paint etc
Also have purchased a Ross balancer and will remove the front pulley as it won't be needed to give me a extra 20-30mm at the front
For the X member I'll modify my spare one but do the Sr guys just use the stock mounts on the motor ? To adapt to the Maddat X member