think the travel may have been the problem. I took the pin out to release the rod fromt he pedal and then attached it again and the pedal nearly hit the floor. So Iv shimmed out the MC and ill see how that goes

Ah i see. Ill check for that bad earth. I was thinking that may be the problem after going through everything else.

Ill check my trvel but I think it was ok last time i checked. Ill check now to make sure though.

Thanks

Quote:It should have little travel in the pedal, if the Master Cylinder pushrod is adjusted correctly, and the rear drum brakes are adjusted, there should be as little as 5mm of travel when you push lightly, say with your pinky finger

The Master Cylinder pushrod is adjusted by inserting (or removing) shims between the MC and the firewall. Insert shims on outside of firewall until pedal height is 139.5 to 143.5 mm off the bare floor (remove the floor mat to check, also back off the pedal Stop Lamp switch). If there is insufficient play, the MC may not release pressure, causing intermittent brake binding

Changing to LEDS can prevent the old-type flasher unit from flashing correctly, since LEDs use less power (watts) than a normal lamp. You can buy special hi-load LEDs, or use an expensive load-independent flasher unit.

But other than that, LEDs should cause no problems, and using an LED lamp for the BRAKE warning light is OK

If the BRAKE lamp glows dimly all the time, it means some circuit is shorting to ground. The BRAKE lamp is HOT (+12V) all the time IGN=ON. It should only glow when the handbrake switch connects it to ground (earth) or when the master cylinder cap sensors connect it to ground. If you disconnected those, and it still glows, the short is somewhere else

The colors shown here are for B110, for the later B120/B122 the wire colors are somewhat different

Ah ok, I may have short actually. could changing my dash lights to leds screw anything up?
Also I just jumped in the truck and the pedal has very little travel in it all of a sudden, not locking up yet though

So that BRAKE light comes on for two reasons:
* Hand brake on
* Brake Fluid low

To test what is causing it, unplug the leads from the caps, and unplug the wire at the Hand Brake. If it still light up it suggests a wiring problem, maybe a short in the harness somewhere







If, when you unplug this, the light goes out, then it either needs adjustment or is defective

haha yup scottish summer at it prime. lovely rain.
So you are correct, that is the caps i have. Its the brake like thats partly on.

Hi Andy, how's the weather in Aberdeen today? Height of summer now being here and all

Glad to hear you've got the brake binding problem fixed

If I recall correctly, you have an early B122 (1982-1989). It should have these caps:



Which light on your dash is on?

so new cylinder worked a treat but iv still got a light on in the instrument panel. gets brighter when handbrake is on. Im wondering if its anything to do with the brake fluid level sensor?

Just seems the pressure just builds up amd doesn't dissipate.....