Hey guys,

I have been doing some reading in my book on turbochargers by Hugh McInnes... What I am trying to figure out is what is the best on the a12 engine. If I blow thru, I would just build a carburetor box, but I have also seen in the photo album on this site blowing thru the carb without a box built around the carb. To do this, do you have to do throttle shaft modifications and float mods?

Now, the draw thru looks pretty simple too, given I have a turbo with a positive seal (not a diesel turbo.) I was just wondering if the stock one barrell carb is sufficient in doing this? I feel that I have a pretty good handle on this, but I needed some real world exprerience, especially some Datsun experience.

Thanks for the help, and I am from the U.S.

Whats the difference with adiesel turbo ?


I might be dumb but I can lift heavy weights

From what I understand, the diesel turbo's seals do not have a positive seal. They have piston ring seal which fuel deteriorates.

okay.

one, you're planning on double the engine power, do you'll need doubel the fuel requirements. the stock carb is good for a sinker on my deep sea fishing rig or a paperweight in this instance.

you'll want a minimum 45DCOE weber because i don't recommend blow-thru AT ALL if your turbo already has a carbon front seal. draw-thru is much more user-friendly and you can even build a fuel cooler so you can run more boost.

but, after the amount you spend dyno tuning and jetting it all to suit, you'd have spent as much as an EFI setup anyways.

not that you're gonna listen to me about EFI. no-one else ever does...

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Hey I am going to put efi on the A15 and its not running aturbo yet!!! but will be one day.

So I have listen to you

That's right we don't listen coz it still ain't cheaper. A micro wreck ecu costs a good $2g to purchase/install and tune. That is a crap ecu that runs almost like a carby due to lack of mapping points. Then you also have to redo your whole fuel system. Fuel lines, fuel filters, surge tank, pre pump and main pump. More money. My carby turbo job has cost nowhere near that. Take one inch and 3/4 SU, put it on the front of the turbo, fit small electric pump and tune. $500 worth of tuning and I was done. If you know the right people your you can pick up T25's already carbon sealed at a reasonable price or get your own sealed for $250.

Craig

Hey Craig why dont you ring Dom at microtech and tell him what you think of his computers exactly like you just said ;Quote:
I am sure he will happily listen and I know he wont get offended, he will simply have a chuckle and ask you to show him exactly how you think most other computers can be mapped better than his. Then he will just laugh at you and tell you to go learn a bit about programming an ecu, he will then laugh again and call you a fool while hanging up.
I am serious go and do it, it will give Dom and Russell something to laugh at and I will have a laugh with Dom next time he drops a computer off.

Cheers Steve.

maybe you think it's crap because knobjockeys like you don't realise that you have to DYNO TUNE a computer to make the most of it, and that "no you can't run a computer off a base start-up program".

an MT4 at $795 + $200odd in tuning and an elec distributor is more like $1000, not $2000. even the LTX8 is only $1395 + tuning.

a computer is only good as it's tuner. if you can tune a carby, you can wire up a computer like microtech. after all, that's what it was designed for.

there is no way in hell you can jet a carby for two radically different fuel requirements that switches in the middle of the rev range.

come to think of it, i'd like to see the results actually.

your carby turbo'd tractor engine against my EFI'd NA quad cam. my car weighs 1321kgs, so i think it'd be a fair match. i'll post my 1/4mile times, then you post yours. how does that sound?

look, he might have slagged off microwreck (sorry - microtech ), but the main point is that setup and tuning a carb is heaps cheaper and that's why people still do it.

he said "$2g to purchase/install and tune" and that's pretty conservative if you ask me. it's $1400 minimum for the ECU. Taht only leaves $600 for the EFI pump, EFI rated hoses, modifed tank for a return line, custom fuel rail, injectors, modified manifold to mount the injectors, AFM, etc. (Forget the MT4 - if you're going to all that trouble and expense who's going to bother with a fuel only computer?) All that stuff isn't free and little things quickly add up. And then you've still got to get it tuned.

Or you get a common 1.75" SU and a few hundred to get it set up properly - if you don't just do it yourself.

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actually, you can do a reasonable job of that if you spend the time modifying the SU needle, and if the turbo is sensibly sized. Or if you had a mech 2bbl carb like I had on my turbo A14...

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having bunged together a much rougher A14 turbo setup (J pipe and std inlet manifold) which went like a cut snake, I know who my money's on here! Claimed power from the 1UZFE is only 255bhp, and those figures are normally a little optomistic. I love it when tractors/dinosaurs/whatever embarrass expensive modern quad this multi that motors...

Dude, I will be buildimg one of these after my blown car is completed. The easyest way to force feed an "A" is a drawthrough turbo with an SU or stromberg type sidedraft. If you monkey with the needle and get the mixture right for the engine while it is still NA, it should provide the right mixture whilst drawing through. If big boost starts to cause detonation, A water injection set up can be built cheap as chips.
That is the cheapest way to make it haul ass. if youcan do the work yourself . it should be doable for less than the price of twin sidedraft. Leave Injection for poeple with too much money.