I'm in the process of building up my A15 in my Sunny, and I need to know some opinions on this. I'm working off a low budget, so any advice on how to save money would be appreciated. The plan is to build a decent amount of N/A horsepower.

-So far, I've killed all the emissions and installed a new MSD Blaster 3 coil on my electronic dizzy. I got a 32/36 Weber DGAV to install as well as plans on the drawing board for a custom header based off my stock exhaust manifold and glasspack to finish it off.

-As far as valve train, what should I look for? I'm planning on pulling the head this summer and rebuilding the head, lapping the valves, new valve seals, etc. Should I consider stronger valve springs as well? Or are the stock one's okay on an N/A engine? I don't really plan on revving beyond 6500

-What are your opinion's on re-ground cams over new cams? I know I can save a ton of money by having a cam reground instead of buying a new cam.

-I need to try and avoid pulling the engine. I have too many problems as is with the county code enforcement, and I can't risk any violation's. Pulling the engine would draw a little too much attention.

Sorry about all the questions, I'm kind of a noob when it comes down to A-series and I don't want to kill anything.

You're not going to see much of an increase in hp with the mods you have described but you will end up with a very usable street motor.
Strong accurate spark - you have done.
Refresh the head as you have planned - don't worry about stronger valve springs as the factory springs are fine for 6500.
Re-ground cam will be fine.

Not sure if you have plans to tidy up the bottom end but I would try and do that if you want a 0 hour motor with no weak spots.

Id go a 4-2-1 extractor aswell. with the right cam grind and the weber and good spark you should have a very tourqey a series that will drive verry nicely.

Well, I don't really plan on seeing a ton of HP out of this, I just want, as you said, a more streetable motor. The bottom end isn't going to end up with a lot of attention. Just new rod bearings and such. A bottom end job isn't easy to do with the block in the car. Not around here anyways. It's got 200K+ miles, so it will see it soon whether I do it now or not.

The 4-2-1 was my original thought. I was going to cut the stock mani and build off of it, or just try and find another one to screw with. I like lots of torque ;)

Also, would it be worth building up an A15? Or do you guys think it would be more logical to get an L series to fit in? There's a nice L20B in a scrap yard around here that I've had my eye's on.

id go L series for power ,but i like the A series motors better and they are what 1200s should have but i wouldnt mind a mild L20 !!

if i were you i would save more $$$$ and go ca18det carnt go wrong there champ or a 200hp 13b rotary

Well, I'm fighting between 3 possibilities here.

1. Build my A15 a little tougher and spend the rest of my money on suspension.
2. Spend a little time rebuilding the L-series and drop it in one dark night when noones watching
3. Pull the rotary from the '82 RX7 sitting a the junkyard that I got the dash out of for my Sunny.

If I had the money for a Cadet or SRDET, I'd go that rout for SURE! Thats future plans. lol

well depending on where you live rotrys are not legit in datsun 1200s but its heaps cheaper than most conversions if its weber but injected n ecu can get expensive.. just bridge port your 13b and leave it carbureted n you will be pulling 180kw no probs..

Well I'm in the USA, so I'm not sure about legalities. I wouldn't think it would be a problem. However, I know it is carb'ed. It's got a nice sized 4-barrel on it which I considered snagging.