Hey guys i was wondering if someone could possibly tell me every upgrade needed to a 1200 ute when ur putting in an a15 such as what brake upgrades are needed and every other upgrade, this would be a huge help.

Thanx Tye

forced induction is a must have

mate the first thing you wanna do is get a bigger radiator, A15's are prone to overheating, swap your brakes, i went with discs off a 120y i also put extractors and exhaust system, really concentrate on your brakes, drums are good, but not id your in a hurry ha ha ha.

let me know how you go
ty

modified engine mounts but your fuel pump may interfere with the righthand side mount but you could use an electronic pump , manifolds, gaskets, larger exhaust system, TF gemini or similar radiator thats all should bolt straight in after that

ya should be fine with the fuel pump if done right or you could sorce a cross member from a 1976 0nwards 1200 ute then you wont need to worry about the mounts. you will be able to get away with the smaller 1200 exauhst if you use the 1200 exaust manifold if you are on a budget it just wont breath as well

What year model is your ute?
If it is up to 1973, then the original engine will have the distributor above the oil pump & you will need to either modify the engine mounts to pick up the more forward placement of the towers on the crossmember or,.... find a crossmember from a 1974 or later ute & fit that instead.

If your ute is 1974 or later, you should have no trouble fitting the A15 into the engine bay as the crossmember will have the towers in the right place for these later engines.

An easy brake upgrade is to either use the complete strut assembly from a 1200 coupe, or get a pair of struts from a 120Y. Avoid the Australian assembled sedans from July 1976 as the disc brakes on these are completely different.

I recomend that you take the chance to slip a new pair of shock absorber inserts into the new struts while you can & if you want to lower the front a little, then some King springs should do the trick. Lastly, use the top piece from your 1200 suspension as these are different from the 120Y item & will leave your 1200 sitting a bit high. Use the 1200 ones to get the ride height right.
ALWAYS use a set of spring compressors when working on front springs as they can cause a lot of pain if you don't, so buy, rent or borrow some, but use them.

Now would be a good time to either overhaul or replace your master cylinder as the drum brake version will need to have the residual pressure check valve removed from the front brake circuit [but not the back] or a new 1200 coupe item will have that done already.

God damn we are a helpful bunch, excellent post Dodgeman!

On the topic of 120Y struts - I have been starting to see a few people using these struts for brake upgrades rather than the Stanza struts.

As I imagine the 120Y strut would be a fair bit lighter - is definitely worth investigating further...

I've got sunny struts on my 1200. (which look very simlar to 120y, but require 13" wheels?

I'm told the late model stanza are the best.

I guess it depends if you want to stop or if you care more about the unsprung weight.

Car performance is all a matter of balance. The harder it goes, the harder you need to be able to stop. This increased stoping power comes at a price, & that seems to be increased mass. It's hardly worth using the big Commodore calipers on the large Magna discs & mount them to 200B struts if you are running a near stock A14 in your grocery getter.
The braking performance would be supurb, but the vehicle performance just wouldn't warrant it.

Obviously the opposite situation of using a CA18DET with original drums in racetrack competition is more than just a little silly, but using a brake system that is right for the rest of the car is the way to go. so figure out what the car is to be used for & work with that.
IE. Road cars usually travel slower than race cars & ride quality is more important, so a lighter brake/suspension could be justified & I suspect that with an A15, the B310 [Sunny] struts & brakes would be needed for engineer certification. These struts will still take the 1200 shock inserts & springs, so it sounds like a good choice to me.
It's all a matter of balance.

the stock sunny brakes are not very good if you live in a place where people like to drive 80mph. with average quality pads they smell really hot from 1 hard stop.

if you work it right you won't even be able to fit any groceries in the car. take the back seat out, make it so it holds about 1 6 pack as long as it can sit on the floor or the passenger seat. then it's a car for the pure enjoyment of driving nobody needing a ride anywhere ;)