Hey boys quick question just had the steering box reconditioned and its all back in the car but I have never really put some thought into what's the best oil for the steering box i am quite sure before I just had SAE 140 oil in there but i found it leaked a little around the box and column..

what do you guys recommend as the best oil for the steering box??

140 is too thick.

use 90 weight, or 85W-140, or 80W-90.

Can you give us any tips on how to get the thing out? I read there was some kind of joint that needs a carefully aimed hit with two hammers simultaneously? or was that three hammers?
Anyway, it's apparently complicated.
Is it really hard?

Steering Gearbox is simple to get out:

1. Remove gear arm from steering linkage
2. Remove steering wheel and Turn Signal switch assembly
3. Loose steering column clamp under the dash
4. Remove the three gearbox-to-chassis bolts.
Then pull it foward and down, out of the firewall.

It's really quite simple get out the hard part is putting it back together..

It also depends on the set-up of the steering box cause the original boxes unless modified use RB41N (Recirculating Ball) steering gear, which is also known as Worm and Sector. RB type is still used by fullsize cars and trucks as it is stronger/more durable than rack & pinion gearboxes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:RecirculatingBall.png << clicky for image

Unless the box has been modified with sealed bearing's and different setup it's quite simple to pull apart its literally just undo most thing's such as the column to the box the locknut and top for the box and use the steering wheel to undo it as it will wind out to a certain point and then you should be able to get it off.. just dont loose the little ball bearings (unless you are getting it rebuilt then i guess it doesnt matter but never the less be aware)

Have a quick read up on the tech wiki for the steering box and linkages/adjusting ect.

(here are the helpful links);
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... le=Steering_Gearbox_Swaps
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... hp?title=Steering_Linkage
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... eering_Gearbox_Adjustment
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... hp?title=Steering_Gearbox

The hardest part is separating the gear arm (a.k.a. Pittman Arm) from the Steering Linkage balljoint. The Cross Rod (drag link/center link) balljoint sticks up into the gear arm.




To separate a rod-end/balljoint, use one of these methods:
* Pickle fork
* Tierod-end joint puller
* Two-hammer method

Pickle fork is easiest but may damage the joint boot. Puller method is very nice. I find the two-hammer to be the most difficult, but it is what Datsun recommended. Basically (after removing the balljoint nut) you hold a large hammer against one side of the part with the hole, and smack the other side with a 2nd hammer. The first hammer is to absorb the blow so the part doesn't move. You have to smack it pretty hard, and hold the other hammer at the same time. Maybe I'm just not very coordinated.

Ahh D beat me to the punch..

But you did explain it nice and simple compared to my long rant

Quote:

My little brother showed me a real simple trick for the ball joints with just one hammer (but he is a qualified mechanic) never the less just get the hammer and hit the ball joint parallel on top of the ball where it joins one hard smack and it falls off every go.

I changed out all the joints under 30 mins on the datsun with that method the ball joints just fall out.. works easiest on the draglink for the tie rods just cause the drag link is nice and big to hit

Attach file:

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  drag link.png (146.28 KB)

Does that mean hitting the threaded portion of the ballstud (smacking the castle nut) ... or hitting the side of the ballstud/end of draglink (just above where the red arrow is pointing)?

one-hammer method works sometimes, but two-hammer will always work no matter how old etc. the part is.

Quote:

ballstud/end of draglink

Hell you would have to be a complete idiot to smack the castle nut strip the thread and *#OOPS# the ball..