User Login    
 + Register
  • Main navigation
Login
Username:

Password:


Lost Password?

Register now!
Fast Search
Slow Search
Google Ad



Browsing this Thread:   1 Anonymous Users





Replacing Wheels stud
Home away from home
Joined:
2003/8/26 2:28
From Brisbane
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 864
Offline
Hi I just got new tyres and mags and I bought 2nd hand tyres to this place right...and he fuc@#d up the thread on one stud now I have to buy new nuts and new stud.
My question is it difficult to replace the stud? Do I have to remove the other parts before I can remove this stud? I can get the part from repco. Please advise as I'm running on three nuts on front wheel. Im still trying to get a repair manual.

thanks in advance

Posted on: 2003/10/28 20:15
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Replacing Wheels stud
Just can't stay away
Joined:
2003/7/24 4:51
From Collingwood. Victoria. Aus.
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 113
Offline
They press out & in easily, if you have a press.
I have seen many a mechanic and others just lay into them with a decent hammer and then put the new one in and tighten it up.
Without a press I would run a drill bit
( say 1/4 to 5/16 ) through the centre of the old stud then it should hammer out with ease. Then pull the new one through by locating it's knurling to the knurling in the axle and tightening using several flat washers between the wheel nut & axle & plenty of oil.

Posted on: 2003/10/28 21:26
_________________
Never ever grow up
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Replacing Wheels stud
Home away from home
Joined:
2002/10/7 10:57
From Auckland N.Z
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 824
Offline
its not that hard, Ive had to replace all of mine because they are to short for racing, I just bashed them out with a hammer and got some new ones off a skyline from pic-a-part, just make sure they are the same diamiter and have the same splines, its a piece of cake, if you can or dont want to hammer them in put a wheel on and do it up real tight, it will pull them in.
Quinn

Posted on: 2003/10/28 22:21
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Replacing Wheels stud
Home away from home
Joined:
2002/12/10 1:31
From Sid-knee
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 231
Offline
What about studs that spin when the wheel is on?
I have had this happen twice now on my 1000. The first time was after i got new tyres put on. The 2nd time was after i got new tyres, again. hmmm?!!

The first time i got out the angle grinder and spent ages grinding the nut and stud down to the point where i could get the wheel off. That was a back wheel - its still only got 3 studs. Currently one of my front wheels has a stud and nut that just spins (been like it for months). I just make sure the 3 good nuts are always tight.

Any suggestions? (other than replace them all before i get new tyres again.)

Posted on: 2003/10/29 3:07
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Replacing Wheels stud
Home away from home
Joined:
2002/5/1 12:48
From Millgrove Vic OZ
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 985
Offline
To remove studs, put an old wheel nut on the stud and belt the nut with a heavy (2 kg+) hammer. They will fall out of the flange.

To install the new stud put it through the flange and put on a wheel nut against a wheel and tighten till the stud is fully seated. Loosen and tighten fully again.

If you want longer studs chea, get the rear studs from R31 skylines or pintara's



Posted on: 2003/10/29 11:38
_________________
Cheers Feral
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Replacing Wheels stud
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2002/8/25 14:39
From Canberra, Australia
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1618
Offline
Yeah I replaced the studs on the rear of my car with ones from a 240K or skyline or something. (Can't remember now) but I just belted them out with a hammer and a bit of biff. I took off the drum outer part and then just biffed it.
I then put the new studs in (Could only do it from one angle as I remeber. So had to put one in the turn to do the next one) Then just put the wheel on and tightened.

Oh yeah, I had to angle grind a flat part to the stud so that it was kinda "D" shaped.
Also make sure that they are straight before you tighten them too...

Posted on: 2003/10/29 12:33
_________________
1971 Datsun 1200 Coupe
A15 Engine. Holley G180 (32/36 Weber). extractors and 2 inch exhaust.
Standard 1200 4 speed with lightened fly wheel and HD clutch
Stanza front struts and brakes.
15x6 CSA Wheels with 195/50 rubber.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer






You can view topic.
You cannot start a new topic.
You cannot reply to posts.
You cannot edit your posts.
You cannot delete your posts.
You cannot add new polls.
You cannot vote in polls.
You cannot attach files to posts.
You cannot post without approval.

[Advanced Search]