Quote:
Rallytwit wrote:
I'm going to chime in along with L18_110: If your building a pukka back in the day vintage car then the 1200 strusts with coil overs with upgraded brakes (like the setup in the down load section on this web site) is the thing to have but because this set up is not very common these days it's pricey. For a track car why not use readily available parts. As for the bump steer, rather than drive it and find out...........why not take out the spring move the suspension through it's travel and measure it??
One thing I've wondered about; why -4 degrees of camber, most of the race set ups (including the aforementioned one here) I've seen call for -1.5 which on my car works quite well as various modern drivers have discovered. That much camber seems like the car would be darty as all get out during threshold braking.
Tom
I'll add that on a properly setup track car, you really only need to worry about bump steer through about 3" of total travel. But in my experience bump steer wasn't an issue with that setup.
most competition radials like lots of camber. With our DOT semi slicks you really need a minimum of 4 degrees to even get close to optimising carcass temps across the tyre. Race cars run between 5 and 7 degrees on the front! even my road car Supra runs 2.5 degrees camber and as much castor as the adjustment allows. Probably a touch too much for the street - it increases the car's tendancy to 'tramline'.
you can't get enough castor on these Datsun strut front ends to negate running lots of static camber on a track car. In fact we run as much castor as we can even with that amount of static camber.
It doesn't lead to instability under brakes. That normally indicates a problem with scrub radius.
If you use radial semi slicks, I suggest monitoring your tyre temps and trying the big camber setups. It really improves turn-in and mid corner grip. Do not try big camber setups on cross ply race tyres!
Transfer
