I think part of why the factory ones are at the bottom, is to keep the fan from coming on until the cooled water is such a temp, indicating that there isn't enough airflow on it's own, and needs more airflow. If the outlet water is cool enough who cares what the inlet temp is, it's going to be 40 - 60 F hotter if your radiator is working well. ( yes you want to monitor the inlet temp for your gauges, but the fan dont really care. ) I forget what the factory switch runs at 165 or something, which add 40 to that and it would come on about when the inlet temp is about 200F, using this setup and a 180F thermostat, which is also the temp oil coolers activate at the car never runs warm.

The factory thermal switch, which i use because they cost about $5 has worked fine for years.

i think of adding an override switch, overcooling before timed runs and freeway entrances had some benefits.