Pt 2. Just as important is the machining. I've had to get conrods closed & honed once, so you could do this, you could get the main bearings closed & honed as well, & new cam bearings need honing too.i once sent a block back to the machinist because the cam was binding, think how much power this would have cost. The aim is to get everything square so there is the minimum drag on the rings & bearings. A friend's test for when he's assembled a motor (flat four VW's) was that they had to turn over by hand. If they didn't, he'd pull it apart to find out why. the short block should turn easily with the pistons in it, but don't get confused by the valve springs. if it wont spin by hand, it aint a spinner. This principal was applied from stock rebuilds to aircraft engines.

Also take your time assembling the engine, if you're going to. It's better to get everything right the first time, than get something wrong & then having to pull it apart & redo it. You may be able to track down a factory engine manual, which has a complete section on assembling the engine, from bare block to putting it in the car. An a12 one can be used for the A15, just substitute the torque settings for the A15, which differ in some areas. Please dont be insulted if you've assembled engines already, & feel you don't need a manual, because as the old saying goes, if all else fails, read the instructions .

So i hope i've been of some help,but dont be afraid to talk to lots of people before making any decisions. Talk to Jeff Taylor, track down some other owners, talk to Andrew Dennis, call
Graham Wilkins here in Sydney at Seven Hills,talk to Chris Petersen when you can corner him, & eventually i sure somebody will pay you the ultimate compliment when they come up to you in the pits & start picking your brains as to just what you've done, because you've inspired them to do it too.