Quote:
mattkb110 wrote:
This is great stuff guys - keep it coming.
A couple of other things to keep in mind or consider:
One. Even though we talk about front and rear ends, it always has to be remebered that both ends of the car happen to be linked by a supposededly solid structure ie the chassis! Anything done to either end affects the opposite end.
exactly - the inside front is lifted because the outside rear is too soft and too much weight has transferred there.
Quote:
mattkb110 wrote:
Two. Further to the comments about roll centre heights, it is very easy to end up with a low front roll centre when lowering excessivley without some type of correction. Once the outer end of the control arms are level or higher than the inners, its time to do some research. This combined with the relatively high rear roll centre of a leaf-sprung rear end (with no additional lateral location devices) can result in a roll axis making a dive toweards the front of the car.
on the 1200 you actually need the front control arms to be almost level to achieve a good roll axis inclination with a standard leaf spring rear end.
Quote:
mattkb110 wrote:
Three. Excessive front roll stiffness can cause the inside wheel lifting scenario (worse if the bar doesn't have enough droop travel as noted in a previous post). However, this is a compromise sometimes needed if competing with an open diff, to try and keep the inside rear on the ground & yet still try to limit the over-all roll to an acceptable limit.
well, excessive front roll stiffness is just another way of saying the rear is too soft... in my case the excess front 'stiffness' is caused by the front roll couple.
a well setup rwd car will lift the inside front a little anyway.
Transfer
