You will require an additional jumper for your socket where the old voltage reg was connected.

The OLD (externally regulated Alternator) had the "N" and "F" connected by the plastic "T" connector.

"N" Neutral was connected by a Y (yellow) wire.
[This is the top of the "T" connector]
"F" Field was connected by a W/B (White, black stripe) wire.
[This is the stem of the "T" connector]

New wring for IR type alternator

Splice the W (white) wire to the Y one. (Sense circuit)
Splice the W/R (white/red) wire to the W/B one. (Lamp circuit)

If you can sacrifice the un-used socket from the voltage reg , its looks way neater.

Also from my expirience [can be very time consuming] is to avoid using crimp connectors and splades. Solder and heat shrink is the way to go. Crimp connectors work but can be prone to intermittent failures over time [very annoying to troubleshoot] and also a small voltage drop can be sometimes be induced due to to poor connectivity.


Also with the last pic, That gauge wire and position is consistant with the wire that connects to the battery via the fusable link. I'm not a great fan of fusable links and replaced that component with an auto reset circuit breaker. ~ 50A from memory. [taking into account that Alternators can spike in there delivery of Amps. For my track car I am only running a 40 Amp unit as I dont have much electrical current draw other than ign and pumps. Rally cars would use larger units to power driving lights etc...
cheers
benny