mcgee...some of the info you posted is a bit confusing, and dare i say it, could lead to incorrect parts being used
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Having done this a couple of times, here is what I used.
Stanza struts (cut down with coilovers).
1200 or stanza lower control arms (ones I got were the same).
1200 steering arm, outer and inner tie rods.
1200 radius rod
1200 ball joint (there are two different lengths)
1200 strut tops.
The control arms that are the same as stanza are the late 1200 ute or late 120y ones. as they have all the proper arms to put stanza stuff straight in almost. very much different to early 1200 stuff
1200 steering arm? as in what th actual strut bolts to? as the 1200 one, any 1200 one, will not work with stanza struts as the bolt spacing is very much different. you need to use stanza, sunny, 180b, 1600. they all work but are different from each other. stanza and sunny are the better ones
1200 radious rods, hey have to be late ute or late 120y ones to bolt in with the stanza or late 1200 control arms. early 1200 ones cant be modified to work. but itsnt the best way to go
1200 ball joints, there are 2 different lengths. correct, but they also have different bolt spacings and balljoint tapers. so only the larger one, which im pretty sure is actually the same length as the small ones anyway, will work with the stanza steering arms and stanza/late 1200 control arms. actual stanza balljoints are the same as the late ute and late 120y ones but are roughly 10mm longer. hence giving you a bit more camber, these are the ones to use
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There are a few problems with lowered stanza struts and decent size wheels.
In saying that, you should also mention that you will have the exact same problem with almost any datsun strut apart from r30, r31, z31, s12 maybe 280zx struts. all the stanza, sunny, 180b, 200b struts have the same stub axle angle and therefore the same wheel clearance (given the same hub spacing)
1200 and 120y struts have a different stub axle angle again allowing even less wheel clearance
Lightload, im unsure is spacing the balljoint relative to the lower control arm will actually achieve anything. as the pivot point of the balljoint relative to the pivot point of the control arm will still be the same. you will only be changing the visual angle of the control arm and not the actual angle of the pivot points.
Thats why you need to space the steering arm down away from the strut
wheel fitment will only be an issue with positive offest wheels, say if you were wanting to run 17x7s and keep them inside the guard. mave heard of anyone having fitment issues of any normal sized rims on a 1200. i can run 15x6 +25 rims on my stanza/200b struts with no issues. cant go much more positive offset wise or go wider at the same offest.
but for a race car it probably doesnt matter that much to you if you have the rims stick outside the guards a bit and have to fit flares
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