I dunno if it would be of any interest - but you can make the shifts a bit quicker (not lightning quick or they'll start to break planetaries, though being in a lighter car you might be ok with it) for literally 1c. The same auto (generally speaking) is used in aussie valiants (some) and fords.

The fords and vals got 5 friction plates per clutch pack in the autos, whereas those put behind 4cylinders might only have 2-3. If you want bits to convert it (basically just thinner spacers) to the full 5, let me know, I've surely got enough spares floating around.

If the auto fails, rather than rebuilding that one, the best option is to get a bw51 (which is just an updated bw35) out of the first 3sp auto ea fords (should be in most wrecking yards for a song). you use most of the internals, which are a lot newer, so less wear and tear, and borg warner also made certain changes to make them stronger (including better support for the 2nd gear (or kickdown) band servo, which can literally rip itself apart from the trans case with harder shifts. additi9onally the front pump will be newer and capable of higher/optimal pressure even at lower rpms.

You can also change the rpms at which the trans will downshift when you manually select first (in std form, they'll do it at x rpm at zero throtle and y rpm at full throttle, you can change it to do a full throttle downshift to 1st at about 5-10% higher rpm/roadspeed with the same mod that tightens up the shifts.

It's called the '1c shift kit' simply because all that is needed is to place a 1c piece (if you can get em) to preload the primary regulator spring. This ups the line pressure and firms up the shifts. And it's about the limit of what they'll take. I've tried 2 stacked together and it broke internals fairly quickly then.

let me know if you want the 'how to' I did a step by step picture series for a couple of forums (moparmarket in particular) for aussie val owners. I've been 'threatening' to do the final version of the write up which also covers how to use the later bw51 trans, but in simple terms you use 90% of the 'guts' of the bw51, only needing (in most cases, though I haven't looked at the ones fitted to an l series, but could tell from a pic or two if you have them handy) the output shaft/governor and extension housing from the nissan spec bw35 to be swapped in there (which does require the trans to be dis-assembled) and then the bellhousing and convertor from the nissan at the 'front' end.