No Spark. Don't waste money buying new parts -- find out what's wrong first. New leads probably won't solve the problem.

Inspect the leads -- pull each end off the cap. If they aren't corroded, that's a good sign. Inspect the length for blisters, cracks or burn marks. If they look good, they probably are.

If only one has a corroded end, that's a sign something's wrong with that lead, plug or cylinder. If one is corroded, that cylinder hasn't been firing well. Give it a compression check.

To be complete, test the leads with a ohm-meter. All five should have similar resistance. The longest lead might have more resistence than the shortest, for example, if twice as long would have about twice the resistance. If all match according to length, they are good.

To test the distributor:

- Pull center lead off cap, and put an old spark plug on it. Lay the spark plug on a metal part (not near carb or fuel line)
- Take off the distributor cap.

Have someone crank the engine while you watch the distributor. The rotor should be turning. If not, the rotor is stripped, or the distributor gear is (not very common) or the timing chain is broke!

If it is turning and the plug is sparking regularly, spark is not the problem.

If you have original distributor with points:
-Turn the ignition key off
-Turn the engine by hand until the points are on a lobe (open).
- Now, turn ignition on (do not crank it).
- while watching the gap in the plug, touch a screwdriver across the points gap. When removed, a spark should appear at the plug.

If not, the wiring or coil is bad or something is shorted. Possibly the condensor (capacitor). Disconnect the condensor and try it again. Should spark OK. If it won't spark with the condensor disconnected, get a new condensor.

Check the voltage at the coil, should be 9V or more on both sides with the points open. If it's only 9V+ on one side, the coil is bad. If there is no or very low voltage, check the wiring to it and the ballast resistor.

A test light can be used here too instead of a voltmeter.

With the points closed, one side should be at 0 volts, the other at 9V or so. If it's not at 0, check the wiring, it goes to the distributor points. Put the screwdriver over the gap, if it goes to zero the points or gap is bad.

The gap on the lobe should be about the width of a matchbook cover. If it's bigger the points probably won't close long enough to work right (dwell too small). Adjust by look if you need to. If it's way too big, the points might not close at all.

Assuming the points are closed, but still not grounding the wire, in this case you might be able to file the points and put them back on just to get it running, but getting new points will give you less trouble.

Let us know what you find out.