I remeasured the front & rear because after rereading Simon's thread the measurements I gave for my car seemed to be off. From the body join the car is now 140mm rear and 125 mm front. The 120/110 was pre-H190 and pre 25mm RC spacers. I raised the rear shackle mounting point so it was level with the front, previously the rear mount was slightly higher than the front shackle mount.

The Addco rear bar attaches as follows; the bushings are bolted up to the frame rail via u bolts (installation required drilling two holes down trough the rails accessed by removing rear side panels) the ends of the bar via a special clamp that allows the use of a standard link. Where the bar itself travels across the car and goes over the diff just above the flange.

As for tires I have previously tried Avon bias ply, I think they were ACB9s, these didn't have the ultimate stick that the Hoosiers do but offered more clearance. I think they were 6.0 x 13. They are taller than the Hoosiers and the side wall has a bit of wind up but are super super predictable, I could hang back out like a Scandinavian rally star. I don't have an apples to apples comparison with the Hooisers as the Avons were takes offs. New Hoosiers were 3 seconds faster but there is a 2 second gap between old and new Hoosiers. My guess is the slightly narrower Avons are 3/4-1 second slower.

I do have one observation about the mid corner lean angle; when the tires start to go off on my car it starts to feeling like it is stalling mid corner especially when it comes to rapid direction changes. It's like it's tripping over the outside front tire. Even though I've stopped winding on steering, the car continues to compress/roll for a split second. If you've ever made the mistake of getting on the marbles with the outside edge of the tires it's a similar feeling to that. I likely won't explain this correctly but my driver attempting to be an eni-gi-near is that as I aggressively turn in on tires that are now 99.5% that the tires are actually washing across the road. They are only "washing" across the road say 50mm and I'm only losing 3-4 hundredths but over the course of 18 to 22 corners it adds up to 1/2 to 3/4 of a second per lap.

The Hoosier tires will do 10 to 12 heat cycles before they go off; there is a spot on my local track that's a 150 degree right into a 45 degree left into a set of 3 - 30 degree lefts. The 3 left handers done correctly form a triple apex left, with fresh tires the 45 left into the 3-30 left can be taken flat but around heat cycle 9 or 10 I may have to breath the throttle back to say 15/16ths for a nano second or sometimes I won't have to lift but I see a tiny dust cloud in the mirror due to rear tire hang maybe 15mm of tire tread of the track edge. 3 or 4 heat cycles after this it's clear the tires are going as I am now lifting back to 1/2 throttle for 5ft or so just after turning into the 3-30 left.

If the car is on rails for a few laps then goes off I'd look around to see if there is a tire that will last a whole session or maybe modify the set up to take the edge off and keep,the tires even f the whole session. Better to start out say 1/2 to 3/4 of second slower on the first laps to keep,the tires from falling of 2-3 seconds a lap. On my 125 GP bike you could go somewhere between .5 to .8 faster on the first 3-4 laps but then about 1/2 way round lap the next lap they'd start to get greasy. You,just had to ride use them 99.8% and be mindful about really aggressive inputs.

Tom