yeah, keep all that stuff, not a bad starting point. it sounds like fun. and it will probably make you a smoother driver, as you'll have to really focus on smooth lines and good exit speeds to get better times - probably not a bad way to start at all. Then when the CA car is up and running just do the same thing, only at warp-speed !

gemini coils are another option - cut down, but keep all the tapered wire (variable rate) end on the spring with the A series engine.

depending on the balance of the car once you get out on the track, you might want to adapt a standard KE30 corolla coupe rear sway bar as well if it's a little understeery with the much stiffer front end.

all cheap things you can pick up from the wreckers, so that you still have money left for the real project car.

another cheap (free) upgrade is to shim up the star gears in the diff centre, which will effectively make it act a little more like a slippery, and doesn't create the turn-in understeer that lockers do. no doubt it increases wear too, but it won't actually be doing many miles if it's not registered.

oh, and cheap diff upgrades in 4.1 or 4.3 ratios (or 3.89 if you want the same ratio) can be had out of those early corollas too, using 120Y tailshaft and yoke. The diff housings are 3" wider, which increases rear track to match the front with the Stanza struts - so you can use the same offset wheels front and rear. They have huge drum brakes too, which work alot better than the piddly little 1200 drums.

and you'll almost definitely have overheating probs on the track with the standard rad, so fit a 120Y one or something. I had a friend who mounted (with zip-ties of course) the heater core in the cut-out on the drivers side (RHD) of the radiator support panel to fix that problem - that usually had people scrathing their heads mistaking it for an oil cooler before twigging to the heater hoses running to it...