is there a problem with making a surge tank from copper?

Copper is a more reactive material..Might not be wise with petrol..But I think the petrol level sender unit has copper wire in it, so it can't be all bad. Is there a reason why mild steel 3 inch exhaust tube won't do the job?

Chris

plan was gonna be 4inch mild steel tube (wall thickness of approx 5mm) but it was suggested this might rust

what do you think?, have you use it?

i guess aslong as there is a filter it should be ok anyway?

will it rust?

[edit] volume will be just under 2ltrs

Best bet I say is to go with a Stainless steel surgie, I bought a 1.5L surge tank for $90. Go with stainless as then you won't have to worry about rusting at all


cheers
damo

The tank is always filled with petrol. It can't rust (on the inside). 1.5-2 litres is good, remembering that most swirl pots or surge tanks in production cars are less than 500mls.

Get someone with a lathe to make you up some end caps, and solder them on with a big soldering iron/flame. You can mig them, but then I'd recommend treating the inside with some rust killer, just like when you clean out your main fuel tank.

5mm wall thickness is far too much. It's hardly pressurised more than 5psi.

Get the finish product coated in powdercoat or just paint it.

Unless it's a show car..stainless is a lot more cost for show only really. If you have some fittings and drills/taps, my way will cost you nothing.

An all alloy one would be good for weight, but the costs also would be high.


At 90 bucks though..demojob puts up a good case...

Chris

Hey Chris how is the sedan coming along??? Is it back from the painters???

Damo

No comment

The painter is in a drug induced coma or something, I think...he comes up with newer, more interesting excuses every time.

I haven't called him for 2 weeks, because he annoyed me with his excuses so much when I last called him.

I'll call him tomorrow and get onto him about getting it done ASAP.
My poor engine will need another rebuild to get the dust out the cylinders...at this rate.

Chris

were you talking mild steel or copper

is there some sort of paint that i can coat the inside that the fuel wont eat away, and that will protect it from rust?

also should i put the return line in the top (lid) of the tank as opposed to the side, that way the tank will be 100% full, i was thinking of putting it on the side (cylinder) as high as possible

basically i dont have a TIG welder to make it from stainless, cant and wont afford $90, and can get it made for free from copper or mild

I was talking mild steel. Just get some oxide cleaning stuff like "CLR" for cleaning the insides. Swish it around on the inside for 10 minutes or so to clean out the scale buildup from the mig welding the ends on. If you choose to solder them on, then this won't be necessary, but a quick swish won't hurt. Follow it up with a swish of metho, then leave to dry.

Seriously..for your A-series turbo, "any which way" would be fine.

Have the "output to engine" at the lowest point. Have fuel input at the top, and also at the top, vent excess fuel back to the top of the main tank. If you have a return line, have it return to the surge tank at the bottom (don't return to the main tank). On EFI installs, the return line provides most of the fuel for the surge tank, except at high load.

Chris

Quote:

oi, watch it , a lot of this stuff i am justifying to myself cause i can use it for th CA later

thanks for the tips, question out of intrest, why the inlet on top and return on bottom i have been told the opposite

the return was supposed to go on top so that there is no resistance pressure apparently, cant remember why inlet was on bottom though