Hi Guys.

I am about to replace my clutch but have a problem with the GX extractor.
As far as I know the exhaust must be removed from the extractor to get space to removed the bellhousing and gearbox from the engine.
The bolts are very tight and previous mechanics who replaced my clutch, that time, broke one of the bolts.They left the exhaust pipe on the extractor and then replaced the clutch by pressing the engine a bit with the exhaust still attached to get everything in and out.
This I do not want to do again as my clutch is chattering now and I think it is because they maybe bended some of the clutches "blades" that presses and depresses the clutch on the inside.
Any advice?
I am thinking of letting them break alll the bolts on the extractor, if it happens, and then putting on all 4 new bolts but do not know what will be the best.
i do not want them to push and drill and all that heavy stuff that may cause the GX extractor to break or even worse my GX head to become damaged as the extractor is still attached onto the head.
I also do not want them to remove the extractor from the head as I think this involves removing the carbs and intake manifold?
Please, any advice?

The factory 1200GX exhaust is a cast iron, dual outlet manifold, not an extractor, & it uses three "studs" with nuts, not bolts.

These studs are the same as the ones that are used in the standard exhaust manifold, except there are three of them instead of the two on the standard model. The nuts are the same too.
I purchased three new studs & nuts a couple of weeks ago from my Nissan dealer, so they are still available over here. They are by my left elbow as i write. The GX flange gasket is no longer available here as i bought the last 5 of them about 15 years ago, but it may well be an available part in South Africa.

Heres what i suggest.
Buy three new studs, nuts, & a new gasket. If your old studs break, then replace them. DO NOT use bolts. By preparing in advance with parts that you might need, you will have a job that can procede even if the worst happens. These parts are cheap, so if you don't use them, so what, just stash them away for later.

If the stud breaks & there is enough of it protruding to get a pair of vyce grips on the remaining bit, you will find that heating the flange to a dull red colour will allow the stud to come out, if it is worked back & foward GENTLY. [humored] Do not use a savage flame on the manifold either, use just as big an oxy flame as is needed to heat it up. Once the stud is out, let the manifold cool down & then run a thread tap through the hole to ensure that the thread is good.

Double nut the new stud & install it with the use of a suitable high temp anti-sieze paste. Do it up tight & remove the nuts. Repeat as necessary for other studs.
Use the anti sieze on the nuts & do them up tight too. You should have no further trouble with this part of the car.

If your flywheel is marked, is discoloured with blue or straw coloured patches, or has heat cracks in it, then it will need to be re-machined to remove these imperfections, or replaced with a new or good used one. If you re-install a new clutch on a crook flywheel, you will soon wish that you hadn't.