Gooday crew,
I just finished modifying the struts and ran new break lines. I put it into the brake shop to have the lines flushed and bled. I reckon they put the calipers back on the wrong side. Both calipers have been honed and polished and have new pistons, they cant be sticking. I drive for 5 minutes and as the brakes warm up they stick. FOR THOSE THAT HAVE GIRLOC CALIPERS, does the brake line attach closer to the bonnet or the road?

If thats not it what else could it be? I have a new master and lines, new everything, they shouldn't be sticking!

cheers fellas
mely

I am pretty sure that the brake lines should be closer to the bonnet rather than the road. If they are down low, the brake lines would be tighter than they need to be.

I haven't looked at mine for a while.

The bleed nipple should be at the top of the caliper (closest to the bonnet) If it isn't
how could you bleed them (air rises).

This is common with all brakes!!!(bleed nipple at top)(there for the line must be at the bottom)


Do you have a brake booster?

Hey, thanks for the speedy reply.
yeah they are on the wrong side. I hope the new lines are long enough to stretch to the bottom. No I have no booster. I have toyed with the idea of putting an N10 pulsar booster in, but the firewall would have to be bent and supported to miss the plenum. We see. My mates sedan has the same setup as I am running here and it pulls up well. What booser are you running?

cheers,
mely

I got a early gallant or lancer booster on one of my 1200's and planing to put a remote booster on my other one.

The gallant or lancer ones are the bomb cause they are small strong and work well in my opinion.

Was wonderin if ya had a booster and turbo cause a mate had a simiar problem and it was somethin to do with a one way valve or something (but this isnt relevent in your case obviously)

If ya lines dont fit I will possibly purchase them from you as mine are cracked and need replacing, will help pay for the new ones.

Where you located?

Just to clarify, what has actually happened?
Has the brakes been swapped left to right or have they been turned upside down or have the whole brake/strut assembly been swapped left to right?

Ok they are right. The bleed nipple is at the top and they are still sticking. I thought the calipers were on the wrong side, but they werent. I took the wheels off and realised that they were right. I dont know what is sticking. The pedal is rediculously stiff so I think I might just crack the pressure and see if that works.

I am in Brisso, I can get the bloke at the brake place to make you a set of lines if you want. He has the fittings and measurements.

DoesIf anyone has any idea what else it could be?

cheers
mely

There might be some "5hit" in one of the junctions that causes an intermittant clog. Or the pushrod may need shortening. Unless they removed the master cylinder I would leave the pushrod alone.

Is the pedal staying hard? If so I would suggest back flushing. You can try (use a proper pipe spanner) cracking any of the joints to try and isolate where the blockage is. If you had it done by someone else, take it back to them; if you handed over cash for a service, demand it.

Cable Tie is right, if you paid for something and it hasnt been done properly its not your problem take it back there and get it fixed.

Dont worry bout brake lines ill get some locally, thanks any way.

I worked it out while I was away... the blokes at the brake shop put in a 1200 ute master. It is set for front drums, it has a check valve that keeps pressure in the lines. Good for drums, bad for discs. I was told I can just remove the valve, is it worth the effort or should I go and get a coupe (or other?) master. Has anyone done either mod?

thanks for your help fellas,
mely

to remove the one way valves should take less than ten minutes. U may need to bleed the brakes again.