My forcefed a14 is suffering from bad detonation. Does anyone know anything about "Boost retard" modules for dizzys? I have been told to weld up the mechanical advance weights, but I was maybe thinking of trying to get some stronger springs instead.

I took her out today, and it was worse than usual. (Louder) And now it is rattling it's nuts off, without even giving it a real big smack of throttle.
Could be crappy fuel, it's been sitting for a week, and our pump gas stale faster than bread left on the dashboard on a hot day. (well not quite, but you get the idea.)

Bart.

it's just a small mod made to the advance side of the dizzy. it's not a module. it holds the plate back in the dizzy and slows it's rotation therefore holding it back from advancing back to your static timing mark. this is why the simple fix of locking the timing is okay, but still isn't the best.

if you lock the timing, you get, say, 0

A mate of mine reckoned that you can get a double sided diaphram with two nipples. One going to a source of venturi vacuum, and the other going to a supply of manifold boost. that way on boost (all the time with my set up) the timing is retarded to take the load off the pistons when the charge is really getting crammed in.
I think 1200RC has something like this, but I'm waiting for a reply to my PM.

It's like torture, not being able to screw my engine right out to the redline. (without hearing that blood curdling ratle) It's like being impotent at an orgy.(of supermodels)

Yes don't let it rattle even a little bit ... danger.

Some factory a-series engines have a retard module on them, at least here in the US (for emissions reasons). It doesn't just stop the distributor advance, it actually retards it (pulls it back). I wonder if these have enough range for boosted engines?

sounds worth looking into.
Are you able to find out how many degrees they retard by?

The Mitsi cordia turbo or datto Z18T canisters connect to the down stream side of the butterfly.
The advance/retard (breaker) plate in the dissy is sprung to a centre neutral position and connectes to the diapraghm by a link arm.
Under vacuum the canister moves the link arm in the advance direction for spark timing, but under boost, pushes the opposite way to retard by up to 6 - 8 degrees.

I have a couple of dissys modded this way but it expensive to have done. Phunkdocta could give some idea of costs.

the one i has just has boost retard, it has been completly modified, there is a mechanical advance set up with weighting, but when boost comes on it retards the timming, no vacuum advance at all, i had it done by a proper dizzy mob and it cost somewhere between 200-300 including rebuilding the dizzy,

i also have a factory electronic dizzy from a US model which allows you to hook up boost retard, i got it after i had my dizzy done, but it looks preety shaggy, would be best to rebuild, best thing is most of its part numbers match those of the non electrical dizzy sold here, like cap and rotor button etc, i'd be prepared to part with it

Does it look a little like this?

yep thats it

Yes, that's a B310 distributor which all US B310s got the electronic version like this.

The dual-vacuum unit is less common, mostly it was on California-model cars due to California's most strict emission laws.