ok i had my head resurfaced after warping it due to temp gauge not working. put it all back together, but wont start.
I think the valves are all out of time. it looks like the inlet and exhaust hvalves for pistons 1 and 2 are all closed at once, 3 and 4 have one open and one closed.

I figured the pushrods would follow the cam, the tappets would follow the pushrods and the valves would follow the tappets, just screw it all back down. wrong i think.

have pics show position of the valves and tappets as it is now but doesnt seem able to upload from computer here.

how do i fix this now???

what motor have you got?

A14

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cam (and valve) timing will be fine. It most likely won't start because the valves are "riding" now - ie not fully closing, so there's no compression. Adjust the tappets and you'll be off and racing in no time... assuming you have the plug leads on correctly

well its really hard to turn over by hand, so must be plenty compression... it looks wrong to me, like the first 4 valves all basically closed??? cant be right can it??

the "just screw it all back down" comment made me think you hadn't adjusted the tappets.
did you loosen off the tappets when disassembly or reassembly, or are they the same as when you took the head off?

Like LB_B110 says, unless you have removed the timing case & messed with the cam or its drive, then the cam timing will be fine. You MUST re-adjust the tappets before attempting to start the engine after any head work.
As long as all the valves go down & up again, the sequence of valve movement will be good.

ok what i did was get each piston right on compression stroke tdc and check where the rotor was facing in the dizzy, to make sure facing the right lead. then i adjusted all the tappets like that. and it fired straight up. I think it was way out how i had it, baqckfiring and all.

if u remember i had to do all this becuase i cooked my motor and warped my head....
I can attest dodgemans way of cleaning the water/oil sludge "choc-milk" with 1/3 kero and oil worked a treat. it really dislodges the sludge when it gets nice and hot too after fast idling for 10-15 mins. better than 3 or 4 oilchanges and filters for sure!

the extra compression, shaved 60 thou or 1.5 mm makes it a lot harder to turn the motor by hand, but not much more if any acceleration. probably a touch more torque.

Im thinking of carbs cam and headers now, whats the best value combo for an A14 in a KB10, keeping in mind clearance under bonnet and engine bay???

Good on you for sorting it out. Give it one more oil change after about a thousand K or even a thousand miles to help ensure that the dislodged sludge that you didn't get before, doesn't fill up the filter. Use the colour of the oil on the dipstick as a guide.

When it comes to induction, it's obvious that a low level setup will work best. This would include twin SU types, which can mean factory A14GX induction if you can find one. Other choices include single or twin Webbers/ DelOrtos/ Solexs. The single carb setup will be lower in cost, easier to tune & will provide overall better driveability if your coupe is strictly street.

Talk to a REPUTABLE cam grinder once you have decided on all of the other engine parts. They have a vested interest in making the right recomendations & they know you will tell all your mates, particularly if it's a bad choice.

My thoughts for a street engine would include Twin SU types, or single Webber [etc] plus tri Y [4-2-1] extractors & & a moderate cam. This is a mild setup, but will return good street performance without being unreliable or undriveable. Your wallet will still be your friend at the service station too.

P.S. See if you can use a 1200 /A12 flywheel as these are lighter than the A14/15 ones

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Can anyone verify that the A12 flywheel will fit an A15. I was going to fit one on my A15 but was hoping to use the bigger diameter clutch (which apparently came on the C20 vanettes) My engine is currently getting balanced, so don't want to find out later that it won't fit. If the A15 flywheel is bigger, where does it get its weight from? is it thicker? which if it is would it not offset the position of the clutch assembly?

Cheers

Damon