I'm about to start work on a pretty crazy a14 setup for road race and the occasional street use, I am just wondering about how much power to expect so I can figure out injector sizing.

EFI with four 38mm throttle bodies
ported a14 head
Pitroad lighweight pistons
ballanced crank
Pitroad camshaft (D or E)
oversized valves
lighweight pushrods
dry sump
and everything else to make it turn 9,000 RPM

Any idea of how much power this would make is greatly appreciated, should be a fun project and complete by december

hey 71 coupe,
sorry I don't know enough to help you but I just wanted to ask you where are you in TX? I'm in the dallas area. I'm also starting a rebuild on my A14. If you're in the area I'd be interested in finding out where you're getting your engine work done (such as crank balancing etc). Good luck with the rebuild
Michael

PM sent

I'd say 180+ at the flywheel with out any trouble.

er not to rain on your parade but....when I was running SCCA GT5 we pitted next to a GT4 210 competitor. Runnning the set up you speak of with webers vs injectors , they were getting 185 HP at the flywheel.
Unfortunatly if they did not rebuild the motor every 6 hours it would grenade....their motors were done by one of the best racing engine builders in the country. I'd forget the street use part especially given racing A14's are running 13/14-1 compression.

Tom

I can only say alot of money goes into a competitive A series when an L series would for less would achieve the same.
Can you run an L14 series instead and class it as a sunny excellent.
L series dont seem to need rebuilds as often and although heavier not pulling them apart so often is a given.
Anyone know how much reliable hp the L14 made in their heyday?

Or twin cams of the ka24 variety are plentiful and have been known to twin cam an old l series here in oz.
http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=15868&post_id=70719&order=0&viewmode=thread&pid=0&forum=8#70719

Looks like I'll be putting together a much milder a14 with the parts I already have first, if it makes enough power I'll keep it as is, if not..... L20.......

That KA24de I have sitting in the back corner of my garage is starting to look more tempting.

Do a mildly built L18. Lower weight & center of gravity. That's what I would've done in hindsight.

A KA is also a good choice that will give you plenty of grunt for low $$$, but it will probably give you front end push & traction problems.

If you have a class limit you could just use a smaller L series like the owner of that crazy L series says L16. As long as the bore is large enough to accomodate those big valves.
Imagine the potential of a lighter and revvier L series instead of a Ka24 but with better breathing potential.
A toyota 4ag has 2 factory 28 or 29mm inlet valves and the ka24 2 factory 34mm inlets!
The potential is mindboggling no.

Valve sizes of popular twin cams modern 4 cylinder 16 valve engines from factory!-

The grand champion is the 34.6mm - of Peugeot`s Mi16 (36.5mm possible with small 84mm bore!!!) so the ka24 is very close at 34mm and most engines cannot go larger than 32mm such as the 4age.

26mm - Ford 1600 Zetec
27.7mm - Rover 1800 K series
28mm - Toyota 4age
32mm - Ford 1800-2000 Zetec
32mm - VW Golf GTI
34mm - Nissans ka24
???mm - Nissan Ca18
???mm - Nissan SR20
???mm - Nissan QR25

Can anyone add where the ??? are?