Hi guy's,

Looks like my garage concrete floor is going to get fixed and epoxyed next week which means I will be stripping the 2 x 1000's very soon to start my project

I have decided to put a sr16ve into it most likely as I can only go 1.6L turbo and the sr16ve motor has a much stronger top end than the sr20's as they are newer technology etc.

What I need to know though before I buy a sr16 is some dimensions of the motor. Is there anyone in brisbane that had a sr16ve or sr20ve motor in a car I can measure up? I particually need the dimension of the distributer cap etc to see if I can fit the motor or whether I need to cut a huge hole in the firewall as I am not sure department of transport will be to happy with me if I have to make a huge square section for the distributer.

As for what I am going to do to my 1000 fastback well here is a small list:-

1. new disks on front set 15mm further out so I can put 40 offset rims on which there are heaps of different mags as opposed to a current choice of about three.

2. sr16ve with supercharger to 5000rpm and turbocharger from 5000-10000rpm with 2 litre crank :)

3. mini tub back of car and install hilux rear axle with disks set to 40 offset for tyres and mounted as a 4 link setup most likely similar to a stanza (no panhard rod)

4. install supra or celica 5 speed box (more ratio options, stronger box and quicker shifting than nissan)

5. full roll cage

6. fixed front carbon race type seats, no rear seats

7. pump guards to make the car look like a factory wide body fastback prototype for slightly wider tires hoping for 17 x 10 on back and 15 x 7 on front

8. rack and pinion steering on front

9. custom front suspension arms with coilover type shock through middle similar to cobra or westfield kit cars

10. Department of Transport approved, legally (which means only 6 inch wide tyres roughly for street use and wider tyres for show and drags)

11. face on passenger when I hand them the adult diapers to wear - priceless

Estimated build time 4-6 years, cost $30K plus all work apart from certified welding done by myself and friends. has to be finished by my 40th birthday

Estimated horsepower 400 ponies or 300Kw in a 675 Kg or 1485 pound car :)

power to weight ratio
1hp to 3.71 pounds
or 1Kw to 2.25Kg's
or 1hp to 1.68Kg's

Estimated quarter mile 9.005
Now that is SWEET Datto!!!!!!

Good luck, they are a great engine, but are rather large, and no smaller than the SR20.

As they come out of a FWD car, the manifolds will need a lot of work, and the sump will probably not clear all the 1000's transverse leaf.

So.. Your dream is good, and it sounds possible if you keep your level of enthusiasm up

Your money would be better invested and spent on a Honda S2000 or something in 8 years time

I am assuming I will need to go to a custom sump and a rear wheel drive oil pump unless I go dry sump which could be a possiblity as they are getting very cheap these days. I am not worried about manifolds as they will all be custom to make the charger and turbo sysyem work. Really am just worried about that damn little dizzy on the back of the head as the problem. I know the sr15ve is the same size as he sr20 except for the crank and rods, that is why I am so keen to put one in cause I can legally go to 2 or even 2.4L stroker as I am using a 1.6 Litre block. was originally going to go ca16 but you can't increase the bore that much with the block and they are getting harder to get parts for.

Good to see someone doing something different.

Good luck & keep us posted with your progress.

Good luck with the project. I was wondering if you have considered a ca16det? Apparantly they go into kb10s quite easily and you can even use the normal a series gearbox. I personally think the current steering/ suspension is fantastic, it handles like a go-kart. Im not trying to say dont do something different, Im just making sure you have considered the options because IMHO a kb10's lightness and handeling are what makes them great. Keep us updated

As far as sr16ve's go they are dimensionally exactly the same as a sr20ve, same bore, essentially the same block just short stroke.
I can't say whether it will turn rwd easily as i think the mounts are in completely different places.Plus as you say, the distributer is in the way.
Its easy enough to adapt a CAS but the solenoids that activate the cam switching are quite large on sr16ve and early sr20ve so even if you moved the dissy the solenoids are still quite large. There is a picture in the photo album of a sr20ve in a fwd which will give you a visual idea of the size of everything and where the mounts are.
finally go to www.sr20forum.com they have a whole section on ve's which will be very helpful.
But if you want to do it and have the money then go for it :)

Nick

i did alot of research into this converstion before I undertook my SR20DE conversion in my 1200 race car.
Granted the SR20and SR16 VE engine are wonderful powerplants, to adapt them to rear drive is a very difficult exercise.
The thing that makes it uneconomical and highly impractical is that the dizzy protrudes from the rear of the head on a RWD config.
Do you go quad coil??? answer no..you would then have to get another ECU hence making VVT useless. What about another head..again no RWD heads dont interchange on VE blocks...mate it is frought with all sorts of roadblocks none of them easily overcome without lots of $$$
the pulsar site has yet to dee one successfully configured for RWD.Is so then let me know....

You could always go Silver / Black top 4AGE 20v, or even twin charge a 16v. they have been tried and tested in RWD configuration, and I believe they would have a similar power out put.
Or you could go F20c out of an s2000 if you wanna go for high power N/A.

Its way too big and too heavy.
Better go the ca18 10 fold its 40kg lighter and as compact as the fiat engines which will also fit easily. Rigoli 1200 anyone?
The SR are sand cast block which means they are huge and heavy.
The other choice is nissans latest pressure die cast alloy 4 cyl in the 2ltr form. Very light and modern design.
The L series is almost the same size just a tad shorter than the SR20 but is lighter and will do without pollution gear and can accomodate a 12v head with 2 inlet valves bigger than almost all twin cam engines including the sr20. A KA24e head fits without much work and its 2x 34mm inlets valves (1 x 40mm exhaust) will make 200rwkws with a factory reworked rx7 turbo 300 easy with better snails.
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3817
I gather you are just thinking Nissan engines so thats all I will suggest.
Ca18 or L18 (with l20b crank, longer rods and ka24e head)
http://zac510.ozdat.com/

thanks for all comments guy's. MY biggest problem is that I definetly want to keep to a nissan motor and it has to be 1.6L maximum for it to be turbocharged, yes I can do a CA16det and it has been on top of the list for a while but I would much rather put a motor in that I can stroke to get more cubes and that is why the SR16 is a great choice. I am going to run autronic most likely so distributers etc are not that much of a problem and I can run a crank angle sensor if I need to it's just working out how much junk I have to deal with behind the head for the dizzy. I know I could get rid of the variable timing by putting custom cams into it so they are locked at a single setting, this has been done or race cars but they are not to good at low revs but the supercharge may help that problem will need to look into it. the other option I thought of was to put a rb20de neo motor into it and see if I could stroke it and bore it to get the litres and horsepower up but don't know anything about them and assume the motor would be a lot heavier and miles to long. I think I might need to take a holiday soon to New zealand so I can have a good look at the SR16 motors in person to see if it is achievable. Don't care if it's difficult cause then there is more chance of someone copying my project

I also am aware of the sr20 site and have got a lot of information from it. once again thanks for your comments