ok before you guys say read the tech section and crack the nana's with me, i did have a look but got a bit lost, so heres my question..

if i was to find a bluebird rear end (diff etc.) what would i be looking at for getting it shortened? i can do the leaf mounts so thats not a problem..

the main reason im curious is, im about to start the Lseries conversion and would like to have my options open for later engine treatments. (if you catch my "drift") im starting with a L16 as its being donated for the worthy cause but would maybe be upgrading to a L20b with a bit-o-go.. and dont want to have any diff troubles..

i have a few months and want to do it in one big go..

oh and does anyone know whats the smallest wheels will fit over bluebird rear discs? i like my 13's but if they have to go they will.. :( but hello pintara steelies lol

thanks in advance (i hope)

Tom

from what I have heard, the engineering company's remove the axles from the housing then heat the housing shafts up till the tack welds melt and the tube slips off the centre housing, they then cut the tube down to the required length and re-attatch it to the centre housing, cut the axles down to the correct length then re-spline each one. Thats about the jist of it if you are relocating the spring perches yourself, also keep in mind the location of the calipers to be sure they don't come in the way of the rear leaves.
I got a quote for a hilux diff conversion from a local bloke here in Bunbury WA, he will do everything including the spring perches for $500 which I was happy with, I am just not 100% sure what diff ratio will be good as i plan to pick the right ratio the first time to keep costs down

A 1200 ute diff is the correct width. The perches are even in the right place. . .

In a B210 sedan we had to weld on some shock mounts and move the brake line junction to the other side.

With a coupe I think the shocks mount differently so you may only need to move the brake junction.

If you are keen you can still adapt the Bluetird discs to the ute diff.

If you wanna go H190, then this info is useless. . .

yeah the H190 is a strong diff with some pretty good performance ratios too, speak to Rfastmotorsport about it he runs one in his coupe.
I think they are 2 inches wider which means you either need to use front wheel drive offset rims on the back or fit wheel arch flares, the extra width would give a good strong stance while powering out of corners (just look at Rfastmotorsports avartar!)

my mate put a s3 bluey diff (h190) in his 120Y coupe, had to move the spring perches.
Even with ET pulsar wheels its wide at the back... looks fat though

got any pics? id be interested to see it

Quote:

nah sorry man its been off the road for a couple of years now, its now at the stage where its running and on the dyno. I'll get pics when he's done

schweeto

if it was me, I'd use either the 120Y BorgWarner 3.89:1 ratio and the same width as the H150 in the coupes , or a Corolla BorgWarner available in 3.89, 4.1, or 4.3:1 ratios and approx 3" wider, which will match the track on the front after you do a strut swap to Stanza or similar. They are strong enough for a top bhp L series and cheap as chips. And they are a bolt in proposition.

You will need the tailshaft from the donor car too (different flange on the BW), and if you use the Corolla diff, you'll need to swap the flange over from a 120Y BW diff, and get the Toyota wheel nuts too (different thread pitch). Handbrake wil require a bit of fiddling around for the Toyota diff.

front end will be early 200b. with girlocks :D

i have considerd the rolla diff and already sussed out the wheelnuts. ;) cheers anyway..