I was getting my 1200 on the road, the one I bought from ddgonzals. I hooked up the heater, painted it flat black, and lowered it. O and cleaned the windows.

Anyways I have the wilwood caliper brackets for the zx struts, so I was going to build some coil-overs, its seems to me that the bottom ball-joint well actually the pitman arm has narrower bolt holes... what do I do? O and on the back I just took the bottom leaf and put it on the top of the stack, it when down about an inch then the shocks bottomed out haha someone put the wrong ones in I think.

use the 210 (b310) steering knuckle

i second that!

since it's a 1200, not a 210/b210/ (120Y) won't he need the lower control arms too?

i recommend doing your bushings now too!

the wilwood brakes are great :)
still haven't gotten any comp use yet...

you'll probably want camber plates too, since it won't be possible to set it properly otherwise...

The ZX strut housings need shorter inserts (and so you cut down the strut housing to match). See Suspension & Brakes Overview.

I believe you need the 210(B310) ball joints to fit the knuckles and the lower control arms to fit the ball joints and the tension rods (or whatever they're called) to fit the lower control arms.
Seems to be a bolt in.
I say SEEMS because i have the control arms but they are not installed.

A long time ago a bought some Gabriel/monroe rear shocks to fit 1200/B210 Sedans. They were too long and my rear bottomed out too. It turns out actuall B210 shocks for a sedan are a little (1") longer than 1200 shocks. I grabbed some stock B210 shocks from the junkyard to compare and found this out.
I don't even know what's in my car now. They're shorter than stock 1200 sedan shocks and dont have the bump stops. This probably isn't good but whatever.

Thanks guys... so I will be going to Pull A Part with that in mind. I might as well grab the b210 sway bar and booster if I find one. I have tien camber plates with 185lbs springs eeehh I hope they are not to heavy, the 12 hundy is a lot lighter than a 510.(spring rate I mean.) Are the b210 LCA's longer? I don't really want to push the wheels any farther out than they are. What is a 120Y?

i have 200# springs and those are almost too hard for the street. Just go fast and the road smoothes out. nismo had 110# for the 1200 listed. 90# was stock on my vehicle. I don't weigh enough to get my car to move when i push on the bumper.

realistically, you'll need to have it weighed and set heights and corner weights, but it's still worlds better that stock.

ESPECIALLY the brakes!

btw, 240sx is what the inserts and coil spring etc come from, so there are very nice adjustable struts.

A 120Y is a b210/210 in some of the other places. sometimes a late model with square headlamps.
they have a chassis code of B310... it gets messy


there's also some talk of using a later 4 lug 350z spindle to help with the widening of the front wheels.

but wait!!!

wheels?

14" minimum. 0 or +12 offset or something wacky like that. get the wheels that car ran with...

you'll probably need spacers :( but I've seen a bunch of big money 280zx's and they can't find wheels either without big spacers.

Sounds like it.

I'm gunna buy some kyb agx inserts for the rear of a 2nd gen mr2 one of the cheapest adjustable insert out there.

Yeah I figured the 185's would be pushing it, but I'm rebuilding a ca18det as we speak, that should help smooth out the ride :)

The rear suspension is going to be fun, I wish nissan still had H190 LSD's available :( Life would be so much easier.... O well Soon I will get to that end of the problem.....

lol
good thing is this is a S13 frontend basically, so you can support any engine you want now. You have lots of breaking power too.

i've been tempted to do something for standard H190's that use the brakes as a LSD like newer cars do now. you need an ABS solenoid/ 2 channel and gear to measure wheel speed on the back 2 wheels. Then you just need someone crazy enough to write some sofware for a micro controller OR find a system out of a pickup truck and maybe get lucky as the controller might be seperate from ECS.

hehe the possibilites are kinda disgusting...

i have the old skool orange koni adjustable dampers in the rear. only down side is you have to take them out to adjust, but have the 6 position tokiko adjustable on the front, nice and easy to adjust.

if they cost less than $100 each they're not suitable to coilovers. be careful the performance shock for the 210 types tend to be un-impressive... anything gas charged is a passenger car app.