I have lusted after one of these for a while. Not because it offers any actual advantage, in fact, for street use it can even be a disadvantage, but it's another genuine factory/Nismo competition part & I have a bit of an obsession with the rare factory/competition stuff.

These things put out about 100psi of oil pressure, so this will need to be tamed down a bit, back to something closer to about 60psi as this will be plenty.
Now I need to come up with a small oil cooler with a thermo by pass so that oil passes through the cooler only when the temp rises above a certain level to avoid overcooling.

The decal was discovered when I was looking for something else in among a bunch of early 50's race bike [bicycle] stuff in my study. I forget where I got it but I have had it for so long that I had forgotten about it completely.


































This is another competition pump, but is a good image of the internal workings & it's shown laying on its side. The left side of the pic is the top of the pump.

what's the disadvantage? the 100psi output?

Nah, the 100psi just imposed needless loads on the drive gear, the cam gear, the timing chain & sprockets reducing their effective service life a little.
I can knock back the max pressure without too much drama.

The downside is that gear type pumps don't 'suck' very well if the oil drains from them. This is why the Chev small block pump, which is a gear type, is located down low in the oil pan.

They pump oil good enough, but don't suck too well when full of air.
The eccentric bi-rotor pump, like the original Datsun one, now they suck, ..... real good, so mounting one up high like on our A series engines is just fine & the reliability of these is legendary.

This gear type needs to be 'wet' with oil or there is a danger that the engine can be starved of oil pressure for a little while on startup untill it purges the air from within.

I have a plan to minimise this problem, so lets just hope it works

I think the oil drain problem should only occur if the engine stands for a really long time. When my dad used to race, they would pack some washers in the oil pressure release valve to up the pressure, but what when the tore the engine down for a rebuild they saw that the main bearings were all worn a little more on the cap side. The only conclusion they could come to was that the oil pressure was to high, and that caused the crank to be hydraulically pushed against the cap halves of the bearings, and that caused wear. They then bothered to take he oil pressure with a proper gauge before running the new engine for the new season, and adjusted the "shims" to get a proper pressure. This didn't affect the big-ends as they rotate 360 degrees relative to the crank. This was on the old x-flow Ford Kent engines.

However what I actually wanted to say, is that if you run this little bugger in conjunction with a turbo you shouldn't have to much problems with the extra pressure...

As I had said before, for street use, the extra pressure provides no benefit whatsoever, but drags a little extra power to push that higher pressure & it imposes some additional load on the cam drive, so I plan to bring it back to more normal levels. 55 to 60 psi should be more than enough. These things pump more volume too, so I think that it will all be good once I restore it to fully serviceable condition.

The engine that it will be used on will be N/A. Say NO to boost. [but yes to EFI]