Ok I made the z car linkage work between the two carbs. What oil, what settings to start out on. As I am unfamiliar with these.

OH! one more thing is it wise or feasable to drill the head for the holes for the coolant passages in the head for the GX induction?

You do not need to use the water passages, but in a cold area it might be a good idea. No idea about drilling the head though. Or you could use a hot-air intake for winter time to prevent carb-icing.

Start with either 20-weight oil, or ATF. Nissan recommended 20W or 10W30 Elephant Oil, but any brand of motor oil will work. Others have reported success with ATF (automatic transmission fluid), sewing machine oil (generally 10W), or motorcyle oil. The lighter oils tend to run the carb on the lean side.

More details: club wiki

I was using power steering fluid in my L16 Hitachi's. Throttle response was much better than with 20W.

There is much reading about them on Z-car/Roadster forums, some guys use the 20W in summer and ATF in winter.

I will give it a go. I made up a new head pipe for the twin GX Ex manifold I will get some pics of that too. Being a Jeeper also, I do have a Tubing bender.

i have always used atf, never leaked past the seals like 10w does some times in hot weather.

you must have a14 or a15 for water jackets in head, dont need them any way.

theres info out there (im not the best to take it off as always have had running rich issues with them) but for the needles under neath, aparently you start by turning them all the way in then 1 full turn out from there.

the idle screws are pretty much a no brainer, adjust them to get a rough idle and fine tune from there. also dont forget a balancing tool to make sure are flowing similar ammounts, also check pistons drop at similar rates, one will always be slightly quicker than the other.

otherwise take it to an expert, i did and still gave me hassles, LPG will fix that

Also I don't know if the A-series would be the same, but with L16 hitachi's the rear carb float level is different from the front carb, maybe there's some information regarding the A-series float level settings in the wiki or if you have trouble I can give you the information from the Stanza A10 workshop manual, I don't know if that would help.

rearfloats different in l series, maybe that was why fronts over flowing and rears ok???? oh well they were reset twice so shouldnt have mattered unless stock.

p

Sorry about that last one!?!?

dont know why you guys didnt struggle without having the water ports in the head, i found that if you started thrashing the car for to long, the engine started becoming unstable for manifold temp. being to high, spluttering, i tried t-ing off other water houses into the sides of the manifold, nothing worked, so i took off the manifold, lined up my new gasket, drilled and tapped M8 holes under each pair of ports, (the M8 holes are for incase my plan failed, i could plug it) and havent a single days problem yet!