just seein wat people have done ,
was thinking bout redrilling the upper control arm ( might not becalled that )

best to leave the lower control arms alone ? ( my wheels stick out far atm so prefer to mod the upper control arm )

in this photo it shows where the upper cntrol arm swings from by movein the hole one way would get more camber :)
this the best way ?

By saying 'moving the hole', do you mean making a slot rather than another hole.

I was thinking about this format a while ago. I am no expert on suspension though.

You would need a bit more meat on the engine side flanges of the UCA though, you wouldn't want it to shear when your giving it to her.

D is really into the suspension side of things, I suggest you ask him directly.

Chris

I've seen the crossmember redrilled and plated..

you should be able to simply add spacers where the spindle (?) through the inner end of upper arm bolts to the chassis. You may need longer bolts and may need to relieve a bit of the upper arm to allow it to move inward enough.

Where do i start?I hate typing!
Do not drill holes anywhere unless you wish to change roll centres.
Do not lengthen or shorten top or bottom arms...same result.
All existing pivot points need be retained to apply correct geometry,and believe it or not factory geometry on a B10 is not too bad.

Camber and castor should only be achieved by the use of shims at the top tower,additional caster can be found at the lower radius rods,but not advisable as it can alter the wheelbase as well and you can have fouling issues or a longer wheelbase on one side than the other.

My cars have at times had up to 7 degrees of camber and various caster settings using only shims(and or round tube)and longer high tensile bolts replacing the short standard ones.
Over the years many reams of paper have been consumed drawing and calculating the correct numbers for front end roll centres along with actually doing what you have suggested already,then testing only to find the bin being the resting place for modified arms.

Hope this helps.

in the photo it looks like there are already shims (yellow), but on the wrong side, next to the knife, on that side it will create pos camber, they should be on the other side to get neg camber. some wheel aligners dont know this and think theres only adjustment for toe in/out.

datto1000wagon will have a comment on this no doubt..... hahaha

yeh jay your right i will comment on how much the sparky at my work is a lil bitch who has nothing better to do then sit at home bludging and trolling the forums what a dumb ass!
haha
and whats the go with your signature
the ute got sold
the blackbird got sold
and you totaled the suby caz you cant handle a few drinks thats sad

lol that yellow thing is my chizzal ( spelling ? )

now im all confused on where the shims go has i would think the piviot point would have to move to make camber ?