hey guys need help with my brakes. to start of this car hasnt driven in 7 years and has been kept in a garage. i replaced all the little rubbers on the wheel cylinder pistons on all wheel cylinders. ive also replaced the master with a 11/16 master cylinder i think from a 1200 and aparently its brand new, the spliter has been replaced aswell with a kb10 one. now i bleed the brakes and get no air but the brakes still go nearly to the floor. on the second pump they feel good. i have no leaks and i have bled them 3 times still with no air bubles. any ideas? its got me :(

adjust

i cant remember but are the front adjustable?

hi my dat1thou wagon does the same thing i was told that my shoes old and the 1st pump push's the shoe out and the 2nd one grips hope this helps but it mite be wrong iam new to drums

the old pump pump up to the lights aye lol ... im no good with drum brakes but adjustment sounds like your problem ... disk brake conversion?

They're adjustable I reckon.

There is a nut on the back plate that serves as an adjuster. Set the adjustment and see how it goes, I reckon you may still have a pocket somewhere, but give the adjuster a go before doing another bleed and pump.

The nut on the back of the backing plate is 17mm .jack the car up and turn the nut one way it will lock the brake on within a 1/4 turn if not turn it back the other way. just turn it till it locks the wheel, then back it off just a wisker the wheel should start to turn with a little bit of resistance the rear is the same off memory

2 snail cams on each front
You need to adjust them both to get it to pull up straight

I think half the problem could be that 11/16's master cylinder. It could be you're just not moving enough brake fluid on the first pump,especially if the brakes are worn. All the drum braked 1200's I've owned had a 13/16's master cylinder, with a residual valve to keep some pressure in the line. I assume the 11/16's was something you had lying around. You can either do a disc brake conversion or replace the master cylinder with a bigger one.
With adjusting the front brakes, as Dattoman_1000 said,there are 2 adjusters per side, one per brake shoe. they are shaped so that as you turn the nut on the outside of the backing plate they move the shoe outwards. The adjustment is to get the front wheels in the air (dont forget axle stands as you have to get under the car slightly), tighten the nuts til the wheel stops turning then back off slightly, just until the wheel will rotate again. Repeat for the other three.
I've experienced what you're going through with the pedal,on a 1200 wagon I'd loaned to my sister, & it wasn't fun. If some kid jumps out in front of you, who has time for that second pump. All my drum brake 1200's were quickly changed to discs, usually 1200 coupe, but some 120Y pbr brakes. With the 1000 it's not that easy, unfortunately. My friend just bought a 1000 Ute that we'll be slowly fixing up, & it'll get the 120Y PBR calipers & disc conversion.So adjust the front brakes, but I'd seriously save up for a front brake conversion, probably the Sigma dicsc & calipers that Lagwagon made up. I've recently found out that the calipers from the Australian assembled 120Y have smaller wheel cylinders than the Sigma ones, so they'd work pretty good with your 11/16's master cylinder, just dont forget to change the rear wheel cylinders to 11/16's as well,or you'll wear out the back brake shoes.

If your brakes harden up after one pump then I think it is not an adjustment it is your fluid - I think you still have air in the system - If I was you I would get some mentholated spirits and run it through your lines - get all your old fluid out and then buy some good dot 4 plus fluid and replace with new stuff - this should be done every few years anyway. When you bleed them use a one man bleeding kit that you can buy from your local auto shop and make sure you have all the air out. Another thing your can do is blow the fluid through with compressed air.

I would also definitely make sure I had the correct master cylinder.