I would like to know the opinion of anybody whom has reseted his rear springs 2 inches down and used his car w/original size shocks before getting shorter shocks installed. I am at
that point ,reseted springs,about to install shoter ones. What kind of performance shoul I expect? And also, about the front sway bar, the end links are stock size, Do I need shorter
end links for the front sway bar? Thanks for your comments.

Hi jaimecidpedro,

If you have de-arched your springs 2 inches then your standard shock will be compressed accordingly. This could lead to bottoming out and you may want to check your rubber bumpstops. The
simplest lowering jobs on live axles are to place a block between the axle housing and the spring. This 'pushes' the diff closer to the car but keeps your shock mounts in the same place.
Your shorter shocks will help with rebound and you will notice less body roll when cornering and a firmer ride.
I don't fully understand your question about the sway bar - is it thicker than factory? If so you may find that you'll need larger mounting bolts to stop ot breaking away fron the
subframe and suspension. Depends on how hard you drive!!

Hy and thankyou for your reply. My question on the swaybar is the following. The sway bar is connected to the subframe at the center (close to the center of frame/car) and at the ends of the
bar , there is connections to the suspension arms that move up and down with the movement off the strut assembly under weight from the car and the sudden effect of driving into curves. This 2
(ea for ea side)links ,end links as known in US , pull on one side of the bar while pusshing on the other side ,the bar perfoming as a sort off torsion bar. The stock sway bar has a
relationship to the stock height of the car,and the links are attached to the suspension arms keeping the bar centered. When the car is lowered,I can imagine(perhaps I am wrong)that the arms
relationship to the frame changes,needing shorter links or else the bar would be sort of rotated upwards,unless what drops the car ,and what drops in the car is only the body with the shorter
front springs,leaving the arms and subframe in the same relative position. In the first case ,shorter links would be needed, in the second,the original size will sufice. Which one theory is
correct,or maybee I am all wrong.I am an amateur,discovering all these things on my own,having fun,but I would like to get a better opinion. After driving for a couple of months, I notice
that the whole bar is like run towards one side,with both links leaning in following way,leading me to think that maybe,perhaps,the links are bigger than needed. This is a thicker bar I got
from ADDCO sway bars,made for my car,it is not an adaptation.After discovering the out of place bar,I proceed to correct it only to find the same out off place position a few weeks/couple
months later. What do you think?. About the shocks,shorter shocks ,as you said will give better cornering,less sway,because I think these regular size ones I still have in the car w/the
dearched springs tend to extend whenever posible ,causing jumpy ride .My rear bumpstops were cut 2 inches before reinstalling them w/the dearched springs. Thanks again. Jaime.

Jaime lowering the car only 2 inches should not have a great effect on the sway bar or its mounts. It is the relationship of one to the other that creates the desired effect. The mount to the
chassis or subframe etc is only to locate it of sorts and provide a link from left to right. Unless the angle moved up significantly (doubtful with 2 inches) it will still work fine.
Adjustable swaybars have a relocation of the link point available from front to back because moving the link forward shortens the bar and provide greater torsion but up and down adjustment is
rarely used. Think how they would get on with lowered cars that clamp the bar directly to the lower wishbone. I would be surprised if the length of the links had any bearing on your bar
sliding one way of the other. Maybe the bushes are loose or something or one link is longer than the other. some cars have a stopper on each side of the subframe locating bush to stop
movement (MG Midget) but most cars don't the bars seems to stay in alignment fine because I guess each side acts in unison not independently. Maybe something is out of alignment.

Shock lenght will not have an effect on your conering or handling either unless the longer ones were bottoming out. It is the compression and rebound valving that will effect handling in
relation to your spring rates. The shocks are only there to control the motion of the spring. If you put heavy shocks in they may appear to help say body roll but if they are too heavy for
the springs and start to try and work against them it will affect the handling somewhere else.
You normally put shorter heavier shocks in to counter the reduced travel of your shorter springs which are usually heavier to stop the car dipping so much through bumps. If you were to use
fairly short springs for example that were as soft as original the car would possibly have problem with bottoming over harsher bumps.
i don't know exactly about leaf springs but if you just reset them to be lower than original but no firmer I doubt the handling would be much different at all. Sure the centre of gravity
would be lower which should benefit but to do it properly the springs should be retensioner to be firmer.
Harder shocks to enhance cornering is not right either it would be better to have softer shocks and a rear swaybar but again shocks and springs should be matched in their characteristics.

Thanks for the answers. That is good to know,the links should not have to do much with the effect because it is the torsion function that is still intact,now I visualize it. What I want to
try is a rear sway bar. Would the original front sway bar work in the rear? I would have to hold the bar to the diferential-axle and then probably weld 2 metal perches for the end links to
hold on to the frame.If the bar is positioned under the axle ,then the links will have to run straight upwards towards the frame. I heard that the front bar should be thicker that the rear
one on a rear wheel drive. Am I on the right path?