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Wheels - Centre Bore
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About to purchace my new wheels and they are being drilled specifically for the ute. I have the offset all sorted and obviously it's a 114.3 PCD. But... the centre bore. The current wheels have a 77mm centre hole which seems pretty big. I can actually see some space between the edge of the centre hole and the hub. Anyone have any idea what the "stock" centre bore is on the utes? Cheers.

Posted on: 2012/2/27 5:30
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Re: Wheels - Centre Bore
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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dont know what the measurement should be, but there should be some gap as there is a fillet between hub and the back face (wheel mounting flange)

if its tight on the hub it will sit on the fillet and not flat on the face, this is the problem you have if you try to put toyota wheels on a datsun

Posted on: 2012/2/27 5:50
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Re: Wheels - Centre Bore
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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measured the toyota rims i had modified by a professional shop, they opened the centre out to 66mm

Posted on: 2012/2/27 5:59
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Re: Wheels - Centre Bore
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sorry 1200rallycar but i think you might be a bit missleading ,the wheel bore size should locate on the axle / hub spiggot diameter ,the fillet radius on the axle is there for a reason and thats why the wheel has a corisponding chamfer on its bore ,to clear the rad ,as for the size of the location dia you should get this measured as they can sometimes be different if for example you have later model discs on the front and std drums on the back . if you run with no location dia the studs are the only form of radial location ,this is not always correct and wheel vibration and even wheel loosening can result

Posted on: 2012/2/27 10:36

Edited by wards on 2012/2/27 12:47:16
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Re: Wheels - Centre Bore
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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really? never known that to be the case, and never known any wheels to be a tight fit on the centre hub section, in fact the hub is usually rough and rusty, if you were relying on that being a tight fit to locate the wheel you would have to sand it to get the wheel on

plus the rear end has no such locating ring in the centre, so why would the front need it and not the rear

i could be wrong but that just doesn't make sense to me, the wheel nuts are a tight fit (or tapered) to locate the wheel, there is no need for the hub to be tight fit too

Posted on: 2012/2/27 10:46
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Re: Wheels - Centre Bore
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On newer cars this has been found to slow loosening of wheel nuts and vibration at speeds but back in the 70's they werent like that as top speed was not like it is now!

Posted on: 2012/2/27 11:12
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Re: Wheels - Centre Bore
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I had a set of mini lights on my first ute and the front rims had there center machined out to do what your asking Wilfred. I don't know a measurement but i do know what your talking about!
From memory...if you can clear the bearing cap you are in business.

Posted on: 2012/2/27 11:24
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For a cheap car these datos can get super expensive....!
All the bits for my ute have been acquired, I only need time and a panel beater/painter! Anyone able to help
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Re: Wheels - Centre Bore
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Just measured 3 sets of wheels for center boar of 65/66mm

Posted on: 2012/2/27 11:47
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Re: Wheels - Centre Bore
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most if not all the vibration/broken stud problems i have encountered over the last 20 or so years of diff conversions have been wrong wheel bore size . i agree that the older 70's cars had no center location , guess what the first thing you do to a 9inch axle is ? any thing that has the grunt to turn the tires will break the wheel studs if the stud is the only location , not trying to push the point but i've seen it too many times to not take notice of it , and i would have thought that a dirt rally car that is often off the ground and ploughing through ruff roads would want as much in your favour as you can get

Posted on: 2012/2/27 12:44
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Re: Wheels - Centre Bore
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Get some verniers or the right measure tool and get them done to the size you need, I agree with wards the tight fit reduces risk

Posted on: 2012/2/27 12:53
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